LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. I 



sh.eif_XX.590 

— rGlfefci 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, j 






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AMERICAN 



Coat.VestanoTrousers Syst 



EM 



SELDEN S. GORDON. 

PRACTICAL EDITOR 

OF THE 

AMERICAN FASHION JOURNAL. 






FOR THE STUDENT AND ADVANCED CUTTER. 



JOHN J MITCHELL, 

"" Mk l: '""-. I MOM SQ, u,. X,w \, 
,895. 






i 



Copyright, 1895, 
By S. S. GORDON. 



* v n a x 







PRE FAC E 



Charles Dickens, in his preface to "Pickwick Papers,' - has expressed our thought 
as follows: "An author who has much to communicate under this head, and expects 
to have it attended to, may be compared to a man who takes his friend by the button- 
hole at a theatre dour, and seeks to entertain him with a personal gossip before he 

goes in to the play." 

"Nevertheless, as prefaces, though seldom read, are continually written, no doubt 
for the behoof of that so richly and so disinterestedly endowed personage, posterity i win. 
will come into an immense fortune), I add my legacy to the general remembrance." 

Great progress has been made in the science of garment cutting during the 
present century. System has followed system, nearly all of more or less merit. 

From the simplicity of early so-called systems, to the complexity of those of the 
present day, there is a marked growth. In all advances, however, simplicity, or natural- 
ness of method, should never he abandoned It is self-evident that a straight line is the 
shortest distance between two points, and that the most simple method by which the dis- 
tance from any given point to another may he obtained, is by measuring in the short- 
est and most direct manner, when possible, from one point to the other. This simple 
principle seems to have been lost sight of by at least very many, and indirect, outof-the- 
way and unscientific methods have been substituted so that with complexity has 
confusion and uncertainty. 

It is the purpose of the author of this work to present a system of garment cut- 
ting which is simple, because it is based upon scientific principles. They are therefore 
natural and easy of comprehension. 

After all the thought which has been given to this science, it cannot be rightly 
claimed that there exists today a generally-accepted standard for the guidance of the 
student, yet there are discernable two general principles which are contending for su- 
premacy, viz., that of the direct application of the measurements of the form and its 
parts, and the other, that the lengths and widths of the parts can be better established 
by proportions of height, breast, waist and seat measures, or that the normal form fur- 
nishes the basis from which all irregular forms are to be treated. 

It is not our purpose to bewail and bemoan. Kmmersou counseled well when 
he wrote: "Don't waste yourself in rejection, nor bark against the bad, but chant the 
beauty of the good. When that is spoken which has a right to be spoken, the clatter 
and the criticism will stop." 

V. e recognize that both of these principles are essential under existing condi- 
tions, but that each has its appropriate sphere. There should be no longer any conten- 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



tion as between the two principles, but our efforts should be directed so that we may 
better understand the spheres in which each should act, and that we may ascertain bet- 
ter methods for the application and perfection of both. 

The science of garment cutting may be classified under two heads or depart- 
ments, viz.: 

Special or Custom, and General or Ready-Made. In the first department the 
student is required to produce a pattern which, in its lengths and widths, and in the 
lengths and widths of its parts, is adapted to the special requirements of each customer 
as presented to him. He must have regard for his taste regarding any special or gen- 
eral feature of the garment. It must conform to the special requirements of his form, 
be graceful in outline and curvatures, and give freedom to the form when in any 
natural attitude 

In the second department his work has lost this special characteristic, and must 
be adapted to meet broader and more general requirements. Here a knowledge of the 
average proportions of the human form is indispensable, as garments are to be produced 
which in all their parts are best adapted to the requirements of the greatest possible 
number of any given size. 

While a knowledge of proportions is of the greatest value to one when in the 
first department, it is not the first matter which should receive the attention of the 
student. If rightly understood and appreciated, the student, when in the first de- 
partment, will find it to be the best of schools for the acquirement of the knowledge 
and experience which are essential to perfect himself in the duties of that depart- 
ment, and which will also better qualify him for the duties of the next. 

One may ignore the first steps and seek to gain by a bound, positions where the 
highest education and experience are essential, but his success will not be of the high- 
est order. In order that the best results may be obtained, no student can afford to 
ignore or neglect any part of the education which is necessary to perfect his knowledge. 
He must also have regard to the order in which his investigations are pursued. 

After many years of experimental application of both the principles herein re- 
ferred to, the author of this work does not hesitate to declare that the primary work of 
the student should be in qualifying himself so that he can, with sufficient accuracy, 
ascertain the lengths, breadths and posture by a direct measurement of the form, and 
the working out of a system by which these can be transferred to the draft. Thus gar- 
ments can be produced for each form as they are presented to him, without any regard 
to their being either proportionate or disproportionate, and there will be no exceptions 
to which this system will not apply. 

When he has become proficient in this he will be prepared to take the next step, 
which will be to inform himself in regard to average proportions. He will find his 
labor greatly lessened, or his capacity as regards the amount of work which he can per- 
form greatly augmented by the use of proportionate blocks, which he himself is compe- 
tent to produce, and is therefore qualified to use. 

Those who favor proportionate systems to the exclusion of all others for custom 
cutting, have done much to enlarge their usefulness and scope, but there are limitations 



GORDON'S ttnkk ON CI PTING 



beyond which they arc not as yet able to go with satisfactory results. They meet the 
requirements of a large number, because a large number come within the range of pro- 
portionate tonus. 

But there are a large number who do not come within this range, and their needs 

also must be met and supplied in a satisfactory manner. 

The principle of direct measurement and ascertainment of the lengths, widths, 
and of the lengths and widths of the parts, and of the posture, meets the demands of 
each case without exception as they are presented, proportionate or disproportionate. 

It will thus be seen that we recognize the value of both principles, and ad- 
vocate their use as conditions and requirements may govern. 

We have endeavored to make our principles so plain that the thoughtful student 
will, as lie progresses, see the reason for each step taken. If we have succeeded 
in doing this, mere "rule" will cease to control the action, unless it is based upon 
a scientific principle the correctness of which can be demonstrated 

With the reason fully aroused, the student who knows why In 
thus or so. has a great advantage over one who merely works from a "rule," for the 
employment of which he can give no reason even satisfactory to himself. His ad- 
vancement will be more rapid, and his work will be of an intellectual, rather than of 
a machine, character. 

The study herein contained is comprehensive from basic principles to the full 
illustration and explanation of all garments worn at the present time, usual and un- 
usual, and the manner of their production for all sizes and shapes. 

We have aimed to set down nothing that will not aid somebody. Many years 
of practical experience in both departments of study, in positions of great responsi- 
bility, which have been marked by highly creditable results, have inspired this work. 
If the author has succeeded in adding anything to the volume of experience from out 
of which truer principles and a more scientific application may be evolved, he will feel 
amply rewarded for his labor. 




GORDON'S WcRK ON CI tTING. 



HOW TO MEASURE. 



FOR A SACK COAT. 

Button coat upon client, pulling down gently until you havea fairh smooth surface 
in back from scat line up, observing that the center back seam is not drawn to one side 
of the center of back. Should there be any looseness at the back waist, unbutton the 
coat and draw it snugly to the form, securing it by a pin at front. 

Locate the Natural II 'aist at C by a chalk mark at center of back. 

Place the sliding arm measuring stick under arms of client, as shown in Fig. i, 
pressing up firmly. Then, holding the stick in this position by the right hand at 
the center of back, take a position at left of client, and support the brass arm near the 
end of same with the left hand. Press up firmly with both hands, bringing; the brass 
arm to a level, and then holding the long arm of the stick in this position securely 
against the back, take position at back of client and make a mark on the top side of 
stick at B. 

Remove the sliding arm. and place the fixed arm under the right arm of client, 
as shown in Fig. 2. Mark the half back width on the outer side of stick as at G. 

Locate the collar seam at top of back by a chalk mark at A. 

Place end of tape at A and call the measures first to B, then to C, then to seat 
line D, and full length E 

Place end of tape at center of back (opposite G) and measure the halfback 
width to G Still holding end of tape in same position, raise the right arm to a level, 
the forearm bent forward at a right angle, measure to elbow, and to a point one half 
inch beyond the wrist joint for length of sleeve. 

Place the measuring stick under left arm. as in Fig. 3, pressing it firmly up and 
against the front of shoulder with the left hand, and with the right hand carry the tape 
to center of back B. Take this quite snug. It is called the short blade measure. 

Then bring tape up over front of shoulder and take a snug measure to A, also 
over the center of shoulder take a snug measure to B. 

Still holding stick in same position, observe particularly that the long 
arm falls perpendicularly, and make a chalk mark at the back edge of stick at the 
Natural Waist C, as at the reference 3. 

Remove the stick, and with tape take a snug measure from 3 to < lor Back \\ aist 
Suppression. (See Diagram 1.) 

Remove coat, and measure the arm seve snugly on the line where sleeve head 
joins the shoulder. 

Take the breast measure fairly close over the vest, with the tape well up over the 
blades, observing that the client breathes naturally and does not expand the chest. 

Take the waist measure fairly snug over the vest at the natural waist, straight 
around the body, as on line C. 

Take seat measure fairly close over the trousers, as on line D. the pockets being 
first relieved of contents. 

9 



CORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



FOR A BODY COAT. 

Proceed as for a sack coat, with the following exceptions and additions : 

Having, as previously instructed, located the points A, B and C, commence by 
measuring from A to B, then to a point 3^ inches below B,then to a point 1 inch above 
C, then to fashionable length of waist, and length of skirt E 

Take the half back width, sleeve length, short blade, front scye depth, and center 
shoulder, as previously instructed. 

Then, with the measuring stick under the left arm, as in Fig. 3, the long arm 
being in a perpendicular position, make a cross chalk mark 3^ inches down from arm 
scye at back edge of stick, and also at the natural waist, as at 5. (Diagram iv.) 

Remove the stick, and with tape take a snug measure from 5 to center of back 
at full length of waist, then from 5 to the point 1 inch above C, for waist suppression. 

Then measure from the point 3^2 inches below 3 on line B, to the point 3^2 
inches below B Also from the same point to B. Take all measures snug. 

Remove coat, and measure arm scye, breast, waist and seat, as already instructed. 

CLERICAL COATS, Etc. 

For all coats which button to the neck, two additional measures are required, viz. : 
For size of coat collar, and slope of neck gourge. For the first, place end of tape at A 
and measure close around over the vest on the gourge line (which the eye can estab- 
lish on client) to the front center of neck, noting the size. Then, still holding tape at 
A with the left hand, follow down with the right to about the breast line at center front. 
Hold there, release end of tape from A and extend it directly up to neck at center front, 
noting the number of inches where it intersects with the point established for the half 
length of collar. 

FOR OVERCOATS. 

Measure in the same manner as for under coats, and in addition thereto take the 
breast, waist and seat measures over the under coat. 

If to button to neck, take the two measures for size of collar and for slope of 
neck gourge in same manner as for an under coat, excepting that the measures are to 
be taken over the tinder coat. 

FOR VESTS. 

Remove coat, and measure from A to the height of opening desired, then full 
length at center front in a direct line from A, then to natural waist at side, and full side 
length. 

Take the breast measure fairly close under the vest. 

Take the waist measure fairly close over waistband of trousers, straight around 
the body. For corpulent forms an additional measure may be taken on a line 3 inches 
below C to the full length in front. 

When a vest only is required, take also the back scye depth, A to B, front scye 
depth, A to 3, short blade, B to 3, and waist suppression, C to 5, in same manner as for coat. 



GORD< IN'S Wi >RK ON CI [TING 



FOR TROUSERS. 

First relieve the pockets of their contents, and, the client standing erect, measure 
from just over the hip bone to knee, and on to within ^ inch oi the floor for outside 

seam. 

I hen place end of tape with left hand close up in crotch, and measure to within 
; + inch of floor for inside leg seam. 

Take waist measure fairly snug over waistb; nd of trousers and just over the 
hip hone. 

Take a fairly close seat measure over the fullest part of seat. 

Take size for knee and bottoms as per prevailing style. 

For corpulent forms an additional measure may be taken to ascertain the height 
of rise in trout, by placing end of tape at the height desired for waistband seam at the 
center front, and extending tape first to the side of leg at knee, then to within - ; + oi an 
inch of the floor at side of foot, noting the length to this last point. Apply this 
measure to the draft in the reverse manner to which it is taken, i. c , from the bottom 
of outside seam up to side of knee, and from there sweep across at center trout. 

When close-fitting legs are in vogue, take an intermediate measure between waist 
and knee at the fullest part of thigh, noting also the distance below the waist where 
this measure is taken, and applying it at the same distance down when making the 
draft. Also take a measure for size of calf, also noting the distance below the waist 
where it is taken. 

NOTES. 

(O Take all measures uniformly close. 

(2.) Notice if one shoulder is more sloping than the other, and make memoranda 
of any peculiarities of shape which may exist and not indicated by the measurements. 

(3.) When properly taken there should lie one inch difference between the coat 
and vest breast measures. If more or less difference is apparent upon first trial, re- 
measure both over and under, until this difference is obtained. 

(4.) When the waist measures for trousers, vest and coat are properly taken 
(as on line C), there will be about 1 inch difference between that for trousers or vest 
and that for the coat, excepting for corpulent forms, when the size of waist will be about 
the same for the three garments. 

(5.) When measuring fertrousers.it is best to consult client as to whether he 
desires them to be close or easy at seat or waist. If easy, take a memorandum of 
the matter and increase the size when making the draft as much as may he required 
but do not vary in the manner of taking the measures ( t. e., sometimes snug, at others 
easy), hut take uniformly close measures. 

(6.) When measuring men of large build for a coat, do not fear to take snug 
measures 

< 7. ) For slight or slender forms increase breast and waist measures 1 inch when 
making the draft, and the short measures, as blade waist suppression, and all shoulder 
measures, ', inch. 




Diagram I. 



GORD< IN'S U< »RK ON (l rTING. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM I 

'I'm'. Single-Breasted Sack Coat. 

A clear comprehension of the principles which are illustrated herein will greatly 
lessen the work which the student, in this system of garment cutting, has undertaken, 
as they have to do with ill of and arc the same in their application to, the drafts which 
are to follow. 

It is drafted from the following measures, viz : 

Back Scye Depth (A to Bj 8)4 

Natural Waist (A to C) 17 

Seat Line (A to D) 2 1 ' , 

Full Length (A to E) 30 

Half Rack Width (opposite G) 7 

Sleeve J, i % 

Short Blade (B to 2) n 

Front Scye 1 >epth (2 to II).... 1 2 A 

Center Shoulder (front of seve up over center of shoulder to B) 10 : , 

Back Waist Suppression (C to 3). . . . S 

Ann Scye 15^ 

Breast 36 

Waist 32 

Seat .. 37 

As the garment is to he of these lengths and widths when finished, the proper 
allowance for seams and ease must be added 

Begin by drawing a straight line from A to F. 

This is the foundation line from which all cross lines are squared. 

Make a mark at A, and go down .-'_■ inches to B, 17 inches to C, 24^ to 
D, and 30 plus ' _. inch to F. 

Square across from each of the above points. 

Go in at I) and F % inch, at C ~ + inch, and mark the center of back 
seam from A through B, C and D to E. 

Remember that all widths must now be applied from the center of back 
seam, and not from the foundation line A. F. 

From A to 1 is ',, of the breast on the divisions of square. 

From 1 (line A) to O is A inch* 

From B to 1 is the half back width 7. plus % inch. 

From E to _' is ' j of breast on the divisions of square 

From C to 1 is ] 2 inch less than from E to 2. 

From P> to 2 is the blade measure 11. plus ' .. inch. 

From 2 (line B) to front of scye is 1 inch. 

From 2 '' to 3 is l / 6 of breast on the division of square, plus '4 inch. 

* For 38 breast, % inch; 1 1 inch. Other sizes in proportion. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



From B to 4 is )A of breast. 

From 4 to 5 (line B) is 2 % inches. 

From 5 to 6 (line B) is 1% inches. 

Square up on breast line at 1, 2, and 3, and down at 2. 

From 1 (line B) to 10 is 1 inch. 

From 1 • to G is l 6 of breast on the division of square, and % inch. 

From G to 12 is 1 }4 inches. 

From 2 (line B) to H is the front scye depth, 12 j/ 8 inches. 

Sweep by 2 as a center, from H to K, and draw line 2 to J. 

From J to L is % of breast on the divisions of square. 

Square out from line J 2 at L to M. 

Sweep from 5 (line B) to J, finding a center at X, just below B, and from the 
same center sweep up from 6. 

From C to 1, and 3 to X is the back waist suppression 8, plus yi inch (the 
same as added to blade). 

From C to 1, and X to 4 is yi of waist, 16. 

From 4 to 5 (line C) is 2% inches, and from 5 to 6 is 1 % inches. 

Square down from 4 and X (line C ) to 3 and X (line D). 

From X (line D) to 2 is 2 1 /, inches. (See note 4.) 

Form the back arm scye 12 to 10 as per diagram, making the half-back width 
opposite G y 2 inch more than the half-back measure, or 7^ inches. 

Form the back shoulder from O to 12, and complete the side seam of back 
from 10 to 1 on line C. 

Draw a straight line from 10 to 2 on line F. 

Form the front and bottom of scye, beginning % inch above S, mark past R, 
crossing breast line }< inch forward of 2 to bottom of scye, which is 3 + ' inch below 
line B, up to 10, as per diagram. 

To get the height of point P, apply the full scye measure, 15^ inches, begin 
ning at R, measure along under arm scye and up past G to 12, deducting for five 
seams, or 1 ) A inches. Then place the tape with the size thus far obtained at R, and 
continue towards P, until you have the full size required, and % inch, from which make 
a short sweep forward and back by S- 

G is the nick of back arm seam, and R is the nick for front of scye. R is % 
inch above line B. 

Form side seam of forepart from 10 through 2 on lines C and D to 1 on line F, 
as in diagram. 

Cut out the back, leaving about 1 inch of paper at the top (A to O), and place it 
in the position shown in the upper part of diagram, with the point A resting on the 
sweep line H K, and O resting on the line J 3. Secure the back by a pin at O Now 
apply the center shoulder measure ( from front of scye on line B up over center of 
shoulder to B, 16% inches), as shown by the curved line in diagram. Allow the point 
B to swing either up or down by the pivot at O until the figures on the tape indicating 
the center shoulder measure touch at B. 

(Nothing is added to the front and back scye depths, nor to the center shoulder 



GORDON'S W( IRK ON Cl TTINCi. 

measure, for the reason that the sinking of the scye ; + inch below line B is an 
equivalent for the seams, which otherwise would have to be added. I 

Having adjusted the back in manner described, so that the required distance has 
been obtained for the center shoulder measure (the point A still resting on sweep 
line II K), place a weight on the hack and mark along the edge of paper from () 
to the intersection of the curved line R B. and on to P, as in diagram. 

Make the length of front shoulder scam (O to P) % inch less than from 
to i 2 of hack. 

Form neck gourge, A M. as per diagram, and trim top of hack (A to O) 
to this line 

Put a fish under center of scye. extending to pocket mouth, taking out ]A. 
inch at line C. 

Y is ■> inch below the square line extending out from P. 

Draw slightly outward curved lines from 4, 5 and 6 on line B, to 4, 5 and 6 
on line C. 

( httline lapel N to 6, and front of skirt, as per diagram or the prevailing style. 

For Si/e and Location of lockets, see Contents. 
For Sleeve, see Diagram IX, and explanation. 
For Corpulent Forms, see Diagram \. and explanation. 
For Collar, see Diagram wii, and explanation. 

N( )TES. 

11.) The space from X to 2 on line C, as in the diagram, is as would be 
required for medium shapely backs. For dose-fitting waists the entire space (X to 2) 
must be disposed of by enlarging the fish at waist line, and the quantity to be 
taken out between 1 and 2. 

(2.) When it is desired that the coat shall be less shapely at hack waist. 
omit the fish entirely, but to compensate for the two scams, which would otherwise be 
required at bottom of scye, take ' _• inch off of the forepart at 1 on line B, extend- 
ing to nothing at line C, as in Diagram xiy. 

(3.) For whole backs, apply all width measures from a straight line, extending 
from A to I-', and upon completing the draft, cut the paper ' + inch forward of this line. 

(4.) The space from X to 2 (line D), vi/., 2'_- inches, is for proportionate forms, 
having a seat measure 5 inches greater than waist. As the relation of these parts vary 
in different forms, apply the following 

RULE. 

For each inch of difference between waist and seat measures, more or less than 
5 inches, add to, or deduct from, the space from X to 2 1 line D) (as established for pro- 
portionate forms), ' + of an inch. Example: 

Waist 32, Seat 37, difference 5 inches. From X to 2, 2^2 inches. 

41 32, '" 38, " 6 " From X to 2, 2- ; + inches. 

36, " 39, '" 3 "' From X to 2, 2 inches. 




Diagram 



GORDON'S WORK ON CI [TING 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM II. 
Double-Breasted Sack Coat. 

The same measures are used as in Diagram i. 

Follow the instructions as given in explanation of Diagram i, with the following 
exceptions and additions : 

The space from 5 to 6 on line B depends upon how far apart latterally it is 
desired that the buttons shall be placed. To determine this, establish a center of 
front line as VVV, which is ' .. inch forward from 5. 

For example: It is desired that the buttons shall be ,v 4 inches apart, there- 
forego back from the center line VVV ' _• of 3^ inches to button line, and forward 
'.., plus l/^ of an inch for making up to 6. 

From 4 to 6 on line C, and from 3 to 5 on line D, is the same as from 4 to 6 
on line B 

As the diagram represents a low roll, the neck gourge is dropped ' _■ inch below 
the line extending from L at M. For short roll, raise the neck gourge about '• inch 
above the line. 

Form top of lapel T to X. according to style, taking out a ' + inch V between 
M and T. In the diagram from T to N is 3 ' _> inches. 

Y is - ; + inch below line E 

Outline front and bottom of forepart as per diagram. 

Space for button holes as per style, and sweep from eve of lower hole, using M 
as a pivot, to button line for position of lower button, then space for those above on 
button line the same as the spaces between button holes. 




Diagram 



GORDON'S WoKK I IN CI I flNG. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM III 
The Shawl-Collar Sack Coat. 

Proceed in the same manner as in explanation of Diagram [.except that there 
is no absolute width from 4 to 5 on line C. the coat not being required to button. 

After having obtained the l / 2 breast (B to 4). and '• waist (C to 4), all other 
parts being outlined as explained for Diagram 1, draw a crease line as from 16 to 18, 
fold the paper back on this line and outline lapel to taste or style. Being a low-roll 
coat, the neck gourge should be sunk from '_> inch to an inch below M. The collar 
is also cut quite convex on the sew-on edge. (See Diagram win.) 

For all short-roll, button-up coats of this class the full allowance of 3^ inches 
must be made from 4 to 5 on line B, and the collar must be cut more convex on the 
leaf edge, and concave on the sew-on edge. 




Diagram IV. 



Gl iRD< >N'S WokK ON CI [TING 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAMI.V. 

The 3-Button B( >i>\ G >\ r. 

The proportionate measures for a 36-breast body coat (see Tables of Lengths and 

Widths) are as follows, viz : 

1. Back Scye Depth 8j4 

2. To point 3 ' 2 inches below 12 

3. To 1 inch above the Natural Waist 16 

4. Full Length of Waist, say 18^ 

5. Full Length of Skin, say 38 

6. l / 2 Back Width ' 7 

7. Blade 11 

8. Front Scye Depth 1 2 - ; , 

9. Center Shoulder [6 r, 

10. Scye 1514 

11. From 2 011 Breast line to 5 below on the upper Waist line 7'.. 

12. From 5 on upper Waist line to center of back at lower Waist line, 

13. From the same point (5) to center of back directly opposite (Back 

Waist Suppression) 8 

14. From the point 3^ inches below 2 on Breast line to the point 3^ 

inches below B 9 

15. From the same point diagonally to B 10^ 

1 6. Breast (over the Vest) 36 

1 7. Waist (over the Vest) 32 

18. Seat 37 

( Read carefully " How to Measure," p. 9.) 

And commence by marking the foundation line A to F. 

All cross lines are squared from this line, except for pitch of neck gourge, L M. 

From A to B is the Back Scye Depth, S;.. inches. 

From A to the upper waist line is 1 inch less than to the Natural Waist C, or 16 
inches. 

Mark full length of Waist, iS> 4 . and length of Skirt F 38, plus T , inch. 

Also make a mark 3J72 inches below B for the second measure 12. 

Square across at A B upper and lower waists and F. 

Go in on the upper waist line T _. inch from the foundation line, also the same 
from F to E, and mark the center of back line A, through B to E hollowing the 
same from a straight line extending from A to the lower waist line ', of an inch mid- 
way bet wee u B and C. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



Remember that all width measures must be applied from the center of back 
seam, not from the foundation line. 

From A to i is I ( , of the breast on the division of square. 

From i (line A) to top of back O is % inch. (For 38 breast, ^ inch; 40 
breast, % inch; etc., etc.) 

From B to 1 is the half-back measure 7, plus y± inch. 

From center of back at lower waist line to 1 is % of the breast on the division 
of square. 

From E to F is % inch more than the width at waist line. 

Mark down from 1 on lower waist line to E at bottom, rounding out % inch 
from a straight line, and add one inch on both sides of back skirt for plaits. 

From B to 2 is the blade measure, plus l / 2 inch. 

From 2 (line B) to front of scye is 1 inch. 

From 2 (line B) to 3 is % of the breast on the division of square and }4 inch. 

From B to 4 is }4 of the breast measure. 

From 4 (line B ) to 5 is 2% inches. 

From 5 (line B) to 6 is 1 (> inches. 

Square up at 1, 2, R and 3, and down at 2, and at a point midway between 
1 and 2 (line B). 

From 1 (line B) to G is l b of the breast on the division of square and T 4 inch. 

From G to 12 is 1)2 inches. 

From G to 10 is i l 2 inches. 

Form the back scye as per diagram, observing that the width of bach oppo- 
site G is )/ 2 inch greater than the half-back measure. 

Form the shoulder O to 1 2 and side seam of back 10 to 1 on lower waist line, 
as per diagram. 

G is the nick for back arm seam, and R is for the nick at front of scye. R is 
Y+ inch above line B 

From 2 (line B) to H (see Diagram 1) is the front scye depth. 

Using 2 (line B) as a pivot, sweep from H to K and draw line 2 to J. (See 
Diagram 1.) 

L. is l 4 of the breast, on the division of square, below J. 

Square out on line J, 2 at L- 

Sweep from 5 (line B) to J, finding a center near the X just below B. Also 
from the same center sweep up from 6. 

The sweep from 5 gives the button line for single-breasted coats (except such 
as button to the neck, for explanation of which see Diagram yi). 

Square across from G to S and form the front and bottom of arm scye, beginning 
% inch above S mark past R, crossing line B }i inch forward of 2 to the bottom of 



GORDON'S WORK < »N CI 1 I [NG. 



scye, which is ' ; + inch below line B, continue to top of side-body, as shown in the 
diagram. 

To get point P and to complete front shoulder and neck goui as in 

explanation of Diagram i. 

Go in on the upper waist line from i to 2, 2 inches. 

Apply the hack waist measure (8) from the center of back to i. and from 5 to 
X, adding '_. inch (the same as is added to the blade measure). 

The space between 2 and X (over the hack-waist measure) is taken out between 
3 and 4, one-half on each side of the perpendicular line falling from the bottom ol 
arm scve. 

\pply ' _• of the waist measure from the center of back to 1. and the re- 
mainder from X to 6. 

From 6 to 7 is :' + inches, and from 7 to 8 is 1 ' _. inches. 

Mark the side seams of forepart and side-body from bottom of scye through 3 to 
Uj and through 4 to V, as in diagram. 

To obtain the line of back seam of side-body apply measures 1 _\ [3, 14 and 15 
as follows, adding '• inch to each : Apply No. 12 from 1 to center of back 011 lower 
waist line, and from 5 (upper waist line) to the lower waist line just above T. 
omitting the space between 3 and 4, making a mark on the lower waist line where the 
tape indicates the size required, pins % inch. 

Apply Xo. [3 from 1 to center of back on upper waist line, and from 5 to 4 and 
3 to 2, add '.. inch and make a mark at 2. 

Apply Xo. 14 by taking the width of the hack at the point 3 ' _• inches below B, 
and placing the tape with the figures indicating this width, at the point 3 '_• inches 
below 2 on line II. measure then to side seam of forepart (omitting the space taken out 
between forepart and side body I, then across from the front of side-body, making a 
mark at back of side body, as per measure, with % inch added. 

Apply Xo. 15 (to B) in the same manner, then by these four marks last obtained 
form the back seam of side body as per diagram Slight deviation from these marks 
may be made when necessary to avoid any irregularity of curve which may arise from 
an imperfect measurement or application of these measures. They are of importance 
in determining the right quantity and disposition of cloth through the back, .and the 
spring of side-body at T. After a little practice they can be taken and applied with 
accuracy. 

Measure along the side seam of back from 1 at lower waist to where the line 
B crosses 011 to the side-body, then follow down on the back seam of side-body the same 
distance, plus % inch to T. 

Y is % inch above the lower waist line, and V is - ; s inch above. 

Draw a slightly-upward curved line from T to 1'. 

\V is 2 inches below the lower waist line. 

Form bottom line of forepart, V to W, as per diagram. Take out fish from 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



waist seam of forepart up, having regard to the hollowness or flatness of client at that 
part. Usually cut out from nothing at bottom and top of fish to Vs inch at the center. 
Outline front of forepart and mark the breast pocket. 

Cut out forepart and side-body and proceed to draft. 

THE SKIRT. 

Draw a straight line across paper 2 or 3 inches from the top, and place the 
forepart over with the lower waist line resting on the line just made. Secure by a 
weight and mark along the bottom edge of forepart, making a cross-mark at V 
and at W. 

Add the width of side-body from U to T, which gives point 2. 

Square down from 2 towards 3, which is 9 inches below the lower waist line. 

From 3 to 4 is 2)/ 2 inches. (See note.) 

Place the side-body with U against V, and T resting on the lower waist line 
at 2 (as shown in diagram in broken lines), and mark along bottom from V to 2. 

Take out ^ s inch from W to 1, and thus complete the top of skirt 1, V, 2. 

By a curved stick, 24 inches in length, having a convexity of 1 inch, mark 
the back line of skirt from 2 through 4 to 5, and add 1 inch for plait. 

From 2 to 5 is the same as length of back skirt. 

Y is the same distance, plus ^4 inch below the lower waist line. 

Outline front of skirt as per the prevailing style, and cut out the remainder of 
the pattern. 

For Sleeve, see Diagram x. 

For Corpulent Forms, see Diagram xu 

For Collars, see Diagram xviii. 

NOTE. 

The space from 3 to 4 of skirt, viz , 2}4 inches, is for proportionate forms having 
a seat measure 5 inches greater than waist. As the relation of these parts vary in 
different forms, apply the following 

RULE. 

For each inch of difference between waist and seat measures more or less than 
for a proportionate form (viz., 5 inches), add to, or deduct from, the space from 3 to 4 
(of skirt), y^ of an inch. Example : 

Waist 34, Seat 39, difference is 5 inches. From 3 to 4 will be 2^ inches. 

36, " 39, '■ " 3 " From 3 to 4 will be 2 inches. 

" 32, " 38, " '' 6 " From 3 to 4 will be 2% inches. 



GORDON'S \\(>RK ON CI I I INC. 



LOCATION AND SIZE OF POCKETS. 

The length and style of a coat modifies the position of the hip pockets for under 
coats, but as a rule, subject to these exceptions, they should be placed in conformity with 
the height of the figure, on a line ' ; of the distance between C and I). above I), as in 
Diagram I, and i inch lower for overcoats. 

For under coats make the hip pockets ; + of the size of hand (see Table of 
Widths), and the breast pocket )/ 2 the size of hand, adding '_• inch to each for tacks. 

For overcoats use the same proportions, but add i inch. 

Make the cash pocket '; size of hand and ' : inch. 

Make the vest top pockets l / 3 size of hand and % inch. 

Make the lower vest pockets 'I size of hand and j4 inch. 

Make the front pockets for trousers -_( size of hand, and the hip pockets }4 inch less. 



^- 




Diagram V. 



Gl >RD( IN'S WORK ON CI [TING. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM V. 

Single-Breasted Frock Coat. 

The measures used are the same as in the preceding Diagram iy. It is drafted 
in the same manner, with the following exceptions, viz.: 
W is i ' 4 inches below the lower waist li ne - 

THE SKIRT. 

After obtaining the line T, U, V, W, reduce the round by taking out '_• inch 
midway between i and _\ as in diagram. 

The front length of skirt (i to 6) is the same as from 2 to 5. 

Square down from \Y and go out 1 '2 inches from 6 to 7. 

The top line of skirt may be entirely straightened, or it may be hollowed from 
1 to 2. all depending upon the prevailing style for Frock Coat skirts, whether they 
are cut plain, or with more or less drapery. 

From 3 to 4 is 3 inches. (See note.) In this diagram the spring is increased 
1 z inch more than in Diagram IV, which is necessitated by the taking out of the ' _■ 
inch on the top line of skirt midway between 1 and 2. 

NOTE. 

For each inch of difference between waist and seat measures more or less than 
5 inches, add to, or deduct from, the space from 3 to 4 of skirt, J^ inch. Example : 

Waist 32, Seat 37, difference is 5 inches. From 3 to 4 will be 3 inches. 
" 33, " 39, " " 6 " From 3 to 1 will be 3 ' 4 inches. 

34, " y s . '' '' 4 ,l From 3 to 4 will be 2-} 4 / inches. 




Diagram VI. 



CORDON'S WORK ON (I I I [NG 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM VI. 
Clerical Single-Breasted Frock Coat. 

Proceed in the same manner as in explanation of Diagram V, with the fol- 
lowing exceptions. 

For this, and for all coats which are to button to the neck, establish the center 
of front, which is represented by the line M, 5. 7, and is 2^ inches forward of 4 on 
breast line, and 6 on the upper waist line. This will also be the button line, from 
which go out -' + inch for front edge of left side and -' + inch additional to X. 6, 8 for 
button stand. 

Drop the front of neck gourge about 1 inch below the line extending from L 
at M, bat when obtainable, apply the neck measures. (See " How to Measure," Clerical 
Coats, etc.) 




Diagram VII. 



(,( IRD( IN'S W< IRK I IN CI T flNG 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM VII. 

1 >i iuble-Breasted Frock Coat. 

Follow the instructions as given in explanation of Diagram v, with the following 
exceptions and changes: 

From 4 to 5 on line B is 2 ; + inches. 

From 5 to 6 on line I! is ' 4 of an inch. 

From 6 to 7 on line 1! is 2 ; + inches. 

From 6 to ~ on upper waist line is 2- , 4 inches. 

From 7 to 8 on upper waist line is 2'j inches. 

The button line is 2 inches hack from 5 on line B, and 1 -- + inches hack from 
7 on upper waist line. 

The width of lapel and position of button line is governed by the prevail- 
ing style. The following rule will apply in all cases, viz.: 

Place the button line back from the center of front line one-half of the distance- 
it is desired that the buttons shall be apart latterly, and go out the same distance, pins 
24 inch for width of lapel. 

The line M, 5, 7, W, which is 2 ; + inches forward of the half breast (4) and half 
waist (6), is at the center of front. 

\V is 1 ' + inches below the lower waist line. 

Form the top line of skirt as in diagram, reducing the round '_> inch half 
way between 1 and 2. Square down front of skirt 1 to 6. 

The front length of skirt, 1 to 6, is the same as from 2 to 5. 

From 6 to 7 is 1 ' _• inches. 

The waist scam, or top line of skirt is subject to change when more fullness or 
drapery is required. The top round, as shown in diagram, may be entirely straightened. 
or it may be hollowed from 1 to 2, all depending upon the prevailing style for frock- 
coat skirts, whether plain or with more or less drapery. 



4^ 




Diagram VIII 



G( (RDON'S WORK ON CI I I IM, 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM VIII. 



Dress Coat, 



Use the same measures and fellow the instructions given in explanation of Dia- 
gram IV, with the following exceptions, viz : 
From 5 to 6 on line B is l / 2 inch. 
Prom 6 to ~ on line R is 2? 4 inches. 
From 6 to ~ on upper waist line is i 1 .. inches. 
From ; to 8 on upper waist line is 2' + inches. 
From X to point of lapel is 2% inches. 
\V is i ' .. inches below the lower waist line. 

THE SKIRT. 

From W to i is i inch, and from i to 8 is 2 inches. 

From 3 to 4 is 2' 4 inches. (See note 3. 1 

From 2 to 7 is ' + of the waist and 1 inch. 

From 5 to 6 is ' ; of the breast on the division of square, and 1 inch. 

Sweep from 5 to 6, using 2 as a center. 

Outline as per diagram. 

\'< >TES. 

( 1.) For forms quite small at the waist, the width of the forepart may be reduced 
from y 2 to 3 + ' inch at 5 on breast line and at M to give good form, as otherwise the lapel 
would have too heavy an appearance. 

(2.) Being a low-roll coat the front of neck gonrge at M is dropped about 1 
inch below the line extending from L 

(3.) For a dress coat, the space from 3 to 4 is established at 2' 4 indies forforms 
having a seat measure 5 inches greater than the waist. In cases where the difference 
is greater or less than as above, increase or decrease the distance from 3 to 4 J + of an 
inch for each inch of difference. 




Diagram IX. 



GORDON'S work ON CUTTING. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM IX. 
The Shawl-Collar Dress Coat. 

It is drafted in the same manner as in the preceding diagram, with exception 
that the width of lapel is reduced at the top, and is increased slightly at 7 on breast 
line, and from X to 1 is cut 011 line with neck gourge. To best determine these widths, 
fold the pattern on broken line, bringing X and M together, lay collar in position 
(which has been cut on sew on edge only 1. then shape for outer edge of lapel to style 
or fancy. 

The top collar and facing are cut in one piece. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM X. 



The Sleeve. 



The diagram opposite shows the relation of the sleeve head to the arm scye of 
coat P, R, 12, and its balance in relation to a perpendicular line as O, < >. 

To draft the sleeve proceed as follows: 

Fold paper lengthwise, thus forming a crease edge, which is represented by the 
broken line on diagram marked " first crease line. 1 ' Open out the paper, keeping the 
hollow of crease underneath, and place the angle of square on the crease edge at R, the 
lower end of the long arm back 1% inches from the crease line, and mark up and 
down the foundation line <).<>. 

From R to A is ; + of an inch. 

From A to B is ' () of the breast, on the division of square and ' + inch. (The 
same as from B to G of back of coat | 

From A to C is */ 3 of full size of arm scye. minus ' 4 inch. 

Square out from foundation line at A, B and C. and extend the breast line at A 
across the paper towards X. 

From B to H is ' 4 . and on to D is l / 2 of the full size of arm scye. ( Make up 
si/e. ) 

Get the separate dimensions of the top and bottom of scye from the draft of tin- 
coat. (See Diagram I.) For the top, measure from R to P and G to 12, allowing for 2 
seams (which, for a 36 breast coat, is 8 inches), and for the bottom, measure from R to 
G, "jYz inches, allowing for.) seams. 

From R to D is the top scye measure and ' .. inch. 

Lav the forepart and side-body of coat on the draft of sleeve, the breast lim 
ing on the cross-line at A, and R touching the crease line, and form the top round of 
sleeve-head from D, touching line C directly above K, and crossing line D, B, F )± inch 
from the forepart, down to R. as illustrated on diagram. 

For the top line of undersleeve apply the measure of bottom scye 17'j inches 
as above obtained) by measuring from R down on a line ' + inch above the bottom of 
side body and up, locating the p >int F where the si/e required < 7 ' .• inches, plus 1 inch 
for seams) intersects the line B D. Having thus located point F, mark from F to R. 
as in diagram. 



CORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



Apply the sleeve length by placing the tape with the figures denoting the make- 
up width of the half back (7) resting at D, then sweep from H to J at the required 
length (31 U). Also sweep for length to elbow at G, as per measure. 

From J to H is '_> the size of bottom of sleeve and ]/ 2 inch for seams. (See 
Table of Widths). 

From crease line to G is yi the size at elbow, and 1 inch for seams and the amount 
to be taken out at the under-arm seam on the 2d crease line. 

Outline, as per diagram, D, G, H and F, G, leaving r 4 inch shoulder at F. 

Fold the paper on original crease line and cut through both thicknesses from 
Dto R, Dto H, and H to J. 

Opsn out pattern, mark nick across at R (which is ^ inch above A) and cut 
singly on the lines of under sleeve F to G, and F to R. 

From A to K, and from J to L is 2 inches. 

Fold pattern on 2d crease line K L, and cut through both thicknesses from 
K to L, taking out ]/ 2 inch on the double opposite G 



NOTFS. 

(1.) For whole sleeves omit the cut on 2d crease line and add but ' 2 inch to the 
x / 2 width at elbow for 2 seams. 

(2.) For sleeves requiring more shaping at the elbow to meet extra curvature 
of the arm, increase the quantity to be taken out on the 2d crease line, adding the same 
to the width at G 

(3.) For over-erect forms, or such as carry the arms with the hands further back 
than is usual, draft as previously instructed, with the exception that the foundation line 
is drawn nearer to the 1st crease line at the bottom of sleeve. For stooping forms, or 
such as carry the arms with the hands more to the front than is usual, increase the 
distance between the 1st crease line and the foundation line at bottom of sleeve. 




Diagram XI. 



GORDON'S WORK ON C1 [TING. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XI. 
Fat Man's Sack Coat. (One button Cutaway.) 

Height, 5 ft. 8. Square shoulders. The formula of measures is as follows: 

SS, 1 7> 24*4, 29, 7X, 3'K. 12, 13^, iX',, i 7 ' 4 , 10%, 40, 42, 45. 

To draft the coat apply the above measures in the same manner as explained 
for Diagram 1, with the following exceptions, viz.: 

Instead of the fish under arms, as in Diagram 1, there will be a straight cut to 
pocket opening, nothing being taken out at waist line. This diagram gives the out- 
lines of a one-button cutaway sack. i. r , it is to button at top button only. 

When laying the pattern on the cloth for cutting, mark down the front of 
forepart from N to opposite lower button, then neck gourge shoulder and scyc to 
seam under arm. Cut the paper down this line and across the pocket opening. 
Spread the cut for pocket apart about ' _• an inch at the back of opening and mark 
the remainder of the forepart on the cloth, which will be in the position shown in 
the diagram by the broken lines. Cut cloth on the solid line to pocket opening. 

The cloth between the solid and the broken lines at pocket opening must be cut 
out, while that between the solid and broken lines between front and side may be left for 
outlet if required. 

The object in thus spreading the pattern at the pocket opening is to give good 
form over the stomach, and it should also be applied to sack overcoats for corpulent 
forms. 

NOTK. 

For coats having pocket-flaps, make the cross-cut at top of flaps, and for those 
finished by a welt make the cut at bottom of welt. 




Diagram XII. 



G< iRDl >N'S WORK UN CI [TING 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XII. 
Fat Max's 3 Button Cutaway. (Body Coat) 

This diagram is produced by the following measures: 

1. Back Scye Depth 8# 

2. To 3 ' 2 inches below same ' - ' > 

3. To one inch above Natural Waist 16 

l. To Full Length of Waist 18^ 

5. Length of Skirt 3^ 

6. Half Hack Width VA 

7. Blade '2 

8. Front Scye 1 >epth 13^ 

9. Center Shoulder i> s ' • 

1 o Scye 1 7/4 

1 1. From 2 on breast line to 5 below "J * •. 

12. From 5 (Upper Waist line) to center of back at lower waist \o% 

13 From 5 I Upper Waist line 1 to center of back directly opposite ( Back 

Waist Suppression ) 'o 

14. From point 3 ' .. inches below 2 on breast line to point .}' -• inches 

bel >w B 10^ 

1 5. From the same point, diagonally to B 12 

1 6. Breast, over the Vest 4° 

1 7. Waist, over the Vest 4 2 

18. Seat 45 

To draft the coat proceed in the same manner as explained for Diagram iy 
(applying the above measures 1. except as follows: 

As there is no surplus between X and 2 (the X and 2 being at the same point '. 
th :re Is therefore nothing to be taken out between 3 and 4 at side seam. 

Take out small V at waist seam near the front, as in diagram. 

There being but 3 inches difference between waist and seat measures, the dis- 
tance from 3 to 4 of skirt is '.. inch less than for a proportionate form, or 2 inches. 
See note, page 24. 

NOTE. 

You will observe that in Diagram [V the X is on the side-body, and in this dia- 
gram X and 2 are at the same point. In all cases where the application of the back 
waist measure brings the X betiveen 1 and 2, make X the hack edge of side-body 
instead of 2. 



4-^ 




Diagram XIII. 



GORDON'S woKK ON CI [TING 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM Kill. 
Spring and Fall Over-Sack. 

From light-weight goods, for Regular Form, height, 5 feet 8 inches. 

The measures are taken in the same manner as for an uuder-sack. and are as 
follows : 

8 ! 2 • 1 7- - I ' -•• 42, 7, _'()'_■, n ■ _. , 11. 1 -' '4. i6'\, 15 ' ... S, 36, 32, 37, in addition to 
which take the breast, waist and seat measures over the under-coat as 3S, 34 '>. 40. 

All divisions of the square are applied from the outside breast measure 38. 

From A to B is the back scye depth, plus ' ... inch, to C is the Natural Waist, 
to D the seat line, and to F is the full length required, plus l / 2 inch. 

Go in at C ' _• inch and form the center hack seam as per diagram 

Square across at each of the above points. 

From A to 1 is % of the breast on division ( t square. 

From 1 to < ) is ^ inch. 

All width measures are applied from the center of hark seam, not from the foun- 
dation line. 

From I! to 1 is the i lalf-Back Width, plus ; + inch, to 2 is the blade, plus 1% 
inches, to 4 is '_• of the breast 

From 2 1 line B) to from of scye is 1 inch. 

From 2 (line B) to 3 is ',, of the breast on division of square, and ' _. inch 

From 1 (line B) to 5 is 2-^ + inches, and from 5 to 6 is 2 inches. 

Square up at 1,2, R and 3, and down at 2. 

From 1 (line B) to 10 is 1 inch. From 1 to G is % of the breast on the divi- 
sion of square, and J + inch. From G to 1 2 is 2 inches. 

Form the back shoulder () to 12, and the back scye 12 to to, observing that the 
width of back at G is ^ inch over the measure taken. 

Square from G to S. (G is the nick for back-arm seam, and R for the front nick. 
R i^ ; 4 inch above line Bi. 

From 2 l line P>) to II (see Diagram 1 ) is the front scye depth, plus ' _• inch. 
p by 2 from II to K. and draw line J to 2. 

From J to L is ' + of the breast on division of square. 

Square out from L to M. 

Sweep from 5 to J. finding a center at X just below R, also sweep up from 6. 

From F to 2 is ' ; of the breast on division of square, and 1 inch. 

45 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING 



Draw straight line from :o to 2 (line F) and place the 1% yard stick along 
this line, with the figures denoting the back scye depth resting on line B. Make a 
mark at end of stick, as at 14. From 14 to 16 is 2)4 inches. Draw line ic to 16. 

From C to 1 is yi inch less than from F to 2. 

Form the side seam of back as per diagram. 

Apply the back waist measure from C to 1 and 3 to X, adding 1 % inches (the 
same as to the blade measure). 

Apply the over-waist measure from C to 1 and X to 4. 

Go back from X to 2 about 2 inches, according to the degree of shaping in to 
the waist as may be required. (See notes 1 and 2 to explanation of Diagram 1.) 

Square down from 4 and X (line C ) to 3 and X 'line D). 

From X to 2 (line D) is 3 inches. (See note.) 

Form the side seam of forepart, from 10 to 1, at bottom, which is in line with 
1 6. ( See note. ) 

Draw curved line from 4 (line B) to 4 (line C), and for good form continue on 
to 4 (line D). 

From 4 to 5 (lines C and D) is 2^ inches, and from 5 to 6 is 2 inches. 

The button line is 3 inches bach from front edge. 

Mark the front and bottom of arm scye as in diagram, beginning % inch above 
S, touching at R, crossing the breast line l /i inch forward of 2, to ^ inch below line B 
and up to 10. 

Now apply the arm scye measure to get the height at P, by first getting the 
make up size of the scye as drafted (allowing for seams) from R past 10, and G to 12. 
Place the tape (with the figures deuoting the size thus far obtained) at R, and make a 
mark at P for full size required (as taken over the vest for under-coat), adding \]/ 2 
inches for extra size. 

Cut out the back, leaving about 1 inch at top, and form the top shoulder of 
forepart and neck gourge in the same manner as explained for Diagram 1, except 
that you add 1 inch to the center shoulder measure. 

From O to P is % inch less than from O to 12. 

Take out a V at M, % by 2 inches, and a fish under the arm to pocket mouth }4 
inch wide at waist line. 

Y is 34 inch below line F. 

For Sleeve, see Diagram x and explanation, making the same t inch larger at 
the hand and elbow than for under coat. (See Table of Widths.) 

For Collar, see Diagram win. 

4* 



GORDON'S WORK ON CI fTING 



/w" Whole Back, apply all width measures from the straight line, A F (omit 
ting the suppression at C ), and on completion of draft cut a seam off the center back 
line, A F. 

For Corpulent Forms, sec Diagram xi and explanation. 

For -l Size and Location of Pockets" see Contents. 

For heavy-weight goods draft one size larger throughout. 



NOTE. 

The space from X to 2 (line D), viz., 3 indies, is for proportionate forms hav- 
ing seat measures 5 inches greater than waist, as taken for an under coat, as waist 32, 
scat 37 ( For an overcoat these should be increased to waist 3 | ' .-. and seat 40, to give 
proper seat room.) The space from X to 2 (line D) is then-fore established as 3 inches 
for forms having a difference of 5 ' _> inches between waist and seat measures as taken 
for an overcoat. 

For each inch of difference more or less than as above, increase or decrease the 
distance from X to 2 (line D) ' 4 of an inch, adding to or taking from the forepart at 
16 the same amount. 

For Waist 35, and Seat (o 1 . (^difference 5^ inches 1, from X to 2 will be 3 inches. 
" '' 37. " 4i T .- " 4'j " from X to 2 " 2^ inchef. 

" " 40, " .|2'j '' 2)4. " from X to 2 "2 inches. 

The full size of seat measure is not to be applied to the draft otherwise than as 
above 



4^ 




Diagram XIV. 



GORDi >N'S WnKk < >.\ i'l I riNG 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XIV. 
The Doi ble-Breasted Over Sack. 
From light-weight material, for Regular Form, 5 feet 8 inches. 

Draft the hack and forepart in the same manner as in explanation of Diagram 
xiii. except the portion of forepart which is forward of 5 on lines B, C and D. 

From 5 to (1 is 3 inches, which is obtained as follows: It is desired in this case 
that the buttons shall be 5 inches apart laterally when the coat is buttoned. The line 
extending down from M is at the center in front. Therefore go back from this center 
line '.. of 5 inches, and forward '_• of 5, and - ; 4 inch to front of coat. (For buttons 
to be placed 4 inches apart, go hack from center line 2 inches and forward 2^ 
inches. 1 

In this diagram the fish under arms is omitted, and to compensate for the two 
seams thus omitted, reduce the forepart at side scam \/ 2 inch at line R to nothing at 
line C, as in diagram. This will give a less shapely appearance at hack waist than as 
in Diagram XIII. 

For close or medium-shaped hacks, cut for center back on the inner line A, B, 
C, I) and F. 

Locate the lower button hole as per style, and sweep from there, using M as a 
center, to the button line for position of the lower button. Space up for remaining 
holes aud buttons. Outline lapel as per prevailing style. 

For Full Hack Box Coat go out from F to Z 1 ' + inches, and cut on a straight 
line extending from ' 4 inch forward of A to Z. 




Diagram XVI. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUT'I INC 



EXP] ANATION OF DIAGRAM XVI. 
Shawl-Collar D. B. Over Sack. 

In this diagram is shown the upper part of a Double-Breasted Overcoat, with 
the Shawl Collar. The overcoat is fully explained for Diagrams XIII and XIV. In this 
the line of neck gourge is extended to N, and the collar is cut quite convex on the leaf 
edge, and concave on the sew-on edge, to give sufficient spring and allow the collar to 
lay smoothly around the neck. Top collar and facing are cut in one piece. 



The SrRTorT Overcoat. 

Draft in same manner as for a Double-Breast Frock Coat, except that you in- 
crease the lengths and depths above the breast line, and all of the width measures in 
the same proportion as for a sack overcoat, when made from light or heavy weight 
goods. The short measures across the side-body must also be increased the same as 
blade measure. Make the lapel about l / 2 inch wider throughout, and set the button line 
back l /2 inch. 



4^ 




Diagram XVII. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XVII 

The Pa di hick Overcoat. 

In this diagram is represented the upper part of the single-breasted " Paddock.' 

It is made with whole back, close fitting at the waist, with plaits in the side 
seams. 

It is drafted from the foundation line- A F, otherwise in the same manner as 
in explanation of Diagram xm, except that the ' .• width of back from C to i 
should be about ' 4 of the size of waist taken over the vest on the division of 
square; % of an inch wider from I) to i, and ' _. inch from F to i. The quantity 
lying between X and 2 on line C is taken out at the fish under arm. All other meas- 
urements are applied as heretofore instructed. 

Upon completion of the draft cut off a seam (% inch) from center back line, 
A, F. 

An extra piece for an under back skirt is to be cut on the crease edge of goods 
from the broken line, across between C and D to bottom, with 1 ' + inch plaits. The 
plait at left side scam of upper back skirt is joined to that of the left forepart. 
The plait at right side of under back skirt is joined to that of the right forepart. 




FIG 5. 



Diagram XVIII. 



G< »RD< »N'S ui IRK ON CI I I l\c 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XVIII. 
Collars. 

The two extremes at which collai n presented by Figures 4 ami 5. Figure 4 the stand- 

ing, and Figure 5 the flat. 

Figure 1 is foi tin . leri< ,il or military 1 ollar, and is 1 ui suffii ientl) 1 onvex on the -■ t 
concave on the other to allow il to m the neck in an upright position. Figure 5 is a 

mostly for a child's collar, [t is cut extrem mil convex on the other, so 

as to allow it to fall with 1 ase around the ne< k. There is no leaf t" tin Figure 4 nor any si 

that in Figure 5, and it would lie as diffii nil to make the first tall as to make the lattei !-■ ^aud. 

From these extremes this principle is deduced, viz: that the more 1 om ave a 1 "liar is 1 ul on the 
sew uii edge and the n on the outer edge, tin- greater « ill In- tin- spring of the collar and thi 

with which it will fall around the neck. On the contrary, the more convex it is cut on the sew 01 

and the more 1 "in ave oil the outer edge, the less will he the spun- and the c loser will the outer edge hug 

the neck. 

Figures 1, 2 ami 3 are the intermediate shapes and the ones most generally required. Each are 
with both the stand and the leaf, and are to stand or tall at will, tn these there is a combination 1 
principles embraced in the two extremes, the stand being that portion lying below the 1 rease edge (whii h 
is represented by the broken lines) and the leaf by the portion above. 

The degree of i onca\ itv or 1 onvexit) of the sew mi edge, or of the concavity or convexity of the 
outer edge in stand or fall collars is governed by the height or depth at which the coat is intended to 
tnd these two extremes are represented b) Figures 2 and 3. 

Figure 2 is for low roll coats which do not require am spring. It is convex on the sew-on edge 
and com ave on thi outer. 

Figure 3 is foi 1 oats whi< h I mi ton to the ne< k, and is , ui directly the opposite of Figure 2, 
concave on the sew on edge and convex mi the outer. The crease line in Figure 3 extends to the front 
end ni 1 ollar, while in Figure 2 it leaves the sew mi edge at the cen 

It will be seen that a collar 1 ut as m figure 2 would not allow the c oat to button to the in :< k, I \ 
reason of the la< k of spring or shortness of the outer edge. e\< ept b\ raising the leaf. 

ft will also be seen that a collar cut as m Figure 3 would not lay smoothly around the nei k mi a 
low roll coat b) reason of an ex< ess of spring or length of miter edge. 

Between these two extremi s , omes the shape whii h is adapted to the greatest number of require- 
ments, and to most coats in general use. It is ( ut slightlj convex on both edges, so that th 
ma) stand sufficiently from the nei k tor 1 omfort of the wearer, and at the same tune give enough of spring 

nr length to the miter edge to allow it to he smoothly around the neck when the ( oat Is buttoned at thi 

or top button, .is m i liagram 1 

This shape must also be used for all coats which are termed soft rolls. /. ,-., to roll either short or 
long, for the reason that to button short roll, sufficient length of the outer edge is 1 necessity. When the 
coat is thrown back at the front (low roll) tic m 1st necessarily lie loosely around the neck. 

Therefore for coats with short and soft rolls, cut collar as in figure I. 

For medium rolls, between Figures 1 and 2. 

for long rolls, as m I 

For ' oats buttoning to the nei k, as in Figi ■ ■ nd ind leaf ci 

lor coats buttoning lo the neck with stand only, as in Figure 4, and with leaf only, as m Figure 5, 

Collars for ulsters should be c on. ave on the sew on 1 ,:. on the outer, for reason that 

being usually 1 ut mm h wider in the leal than othi I nt spring, or length of outer 

edge, to allow the collar to lie easily over the shoulder, on to the neck when desired. 

[n order that the ends of the collar may meet 1 lose in front when turned down, cut the collar 
about an ini h longer than the front notch, and in securing c ollar to the 1 oat leave the ends loose or open 
beyond the notch. 

For shawl . ollars the top collar and facing must be cut whole in one piece, and care must be exer- 
cised in giving a sufficient amount of spring to the outer edge of the top collar to permit it to cover the 
under collar properly. 

Make the lengths of all collars on the sew-on edge the same as n i, ( 1. M. 

When bound, reduce length and width of leaf each one quarter inch. 




Diagram XIX. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CI I 1 IV, 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XIX. 
The Inverness. 

A simple way of producing this garment is to take an overcoat pattern of the 
size required and from it make the changes as shown in diagram, the broken lines rep- 
resenting the overcoat pattern, and the solid lines the inverness. It" yon have not the 
pattern for overcoat, first draft one of size required, as in explanation of Diagram xm 
or xiv. 

Then draw straight line on separate paper, as from A to H,and place the back of 
overcoat on this line, touching at top and bottom. 

From A to II is the length required, plus ' .. inch. 

Mark lightly around shoulder and side seam. A, O, 12, 10 to G. and remove back. 

Place the forepart of overcoat pattern with the top of side seam touching the 
back at 10, and the bottom about \% inches forward of G. 

Mark around edge of forepart and remove the pattern. 

From 1 to L is 1 ' .. inches. 

Form side seam from O through io to I., as in diagram. 

From P to J is \]4 inches. 

From J to I) is the same as the back has been reduced at C. 

From breast line to K is the same as from breast- line to 1 2. 

Draw line D to F, keeping % inch back of the front of scve. 

The buttons, fly and pockets (except breast pocket) are the same as for over 
sack. Make breast pocket as illustrated. 

Cut out back and forepart, and proceed to form the cape by placing both in the 
position as drafted, and mark for side seam of cape from O along the shoulder seam to 
D, and by a graceful curve through K. which is ' .. inch below B. 

Form the front from O to within '.. inch of button line. 

Apply the top width of back, A to () above, from shoulder point O, and measure 
for length of cape to F. 

Sweep from F, using as a center. 

Place separate paper underneath, and by tracer mark through on outline of cape. 

The length of cape is taken, as herein applied, from socket bone down in front 
of the arm to length required, which usually is about an inch above end of sleeve. 



Gi 'l DON'S W( iKK ON i l I MM 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XX. 

The Inverness, with Sleeves. 

Proceed as in explanation of Diagram xix, with the following exceptions : 

E is ',, of the breast on the division of square and i inch above the breast line. 

From E to N is ; inch. 

That portion of the back which has been taken off above the shoulder at X. K. 
is added to the top shoulder of forepart above J. 

For the sleeve, measure top scye R to P, and [2 to G, allowing for two semis, 
and the bottom scye, separately, from R to G, at the increased width of back, and draft 
the sleeve as heretofore instructed. 

For sleeve, see Diagram x. 




Diagram XXI. 



<;< )RD( IN'S W'uRK ON CI II ENG 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXI. 
Three-Quarter Shoulder C vrk. 

To draft from a coat pattern lay the back and forepart together in position, as 
shown by the broken lines, and draw straight line from G to C. Then mark neck 
gourge C to I., and center of front L, J, P. (J is 2 ; + inches forward of tin- half breast 
H.) ' 

From ( ) to X is ',, of breast on the division of square, and from X to A is i inch. 

From (i to C is length of cape, pins ' .. inch. 

Sweep by A from C to P, as per broken line 

Add 3 inches X to < ), and outline bottom of cape C, < >, I'. 

If it is desired to button at front, add i inch for button stand. 

To draft without coat pattern, take the following measures, or use the propor- 
tionate measures for size required, as per table. 

Length, G to C, short blade, front scye depth and breast as for under coat. If 
to be worn over under coat, all divisions of tin- breast will be for two sizes larger than 
the breast as taken, as for a 36 use the divisions of 38. 

Square lines A, B, C. 

From A to B is the front scye depth, plus '_. inch. 

Sweep from A to 1'* by B. 

From A to X is 1 inch, and from X to C, is ' (i breast on the division of square. 

From ( '. to K is ',, of the breast ion the division) and 1 ' _. inches. 

Draw line 1! to F. 

Square both ways from line I!. F, at B, towards J and K. 

From B to K is the blade measure, plus 1 ' + inches 

From K to II is one-half of 2 inches more than breast measure. 

From II to J is 2 A inches. Sweep from J to A, finding center at X, near K. 

From B to R is X'_. inches. 

From R to S is '4 the waist (and 1 ' 4 inches if worn over the overcoat 1. From 
S to T is 2? + inches. 

Draw curved line from A to L.J, T. towards I'. 

From A to I, is ' 4 of breast on the division of square. 

Form neck gourge from G, dropping gradually to L. 

Add 1 inch to front line, L, J, T, P, for button stand, if required to button. 

X( )TE. 

If cape is to be worn over the under coat add but '• inch to blade measure, nothing 

to the trout scye depth, and use the divisions of breast according to measure as taken 
for under coat. From K to H will be >< breast, and R to S % waist, as taken for under 
coat. 




Diagram XXIi. 



(,i iRDi iN'.S Wi IRK ON CI [TING. 



DIACxRAM XXII. 

Represents a shoulder cape with less drapery than the -^ ca P e m preceding 
diagram. It is produced by first drafting cape in either manner, as explained for 
Diagram xxi. 

Then draw line from D to O (O is midway between C, P). 

From D to B is ' ; of breast on the division of square. 

Cut through this line from D to (), and using B as a center, allow the back at I ) 
to overlap the forepart until the V at shoulder is open about 2 inches, as from I) to A. 
Paste the two parts together in this position, and add a seam to each edge of the Y. 



63 



GORDi 'VS \M >kk ON ii [TING 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXIII. 
Cape For Overcoat, With Full Shoulder Seams. 

Tin- method of drafting capes fur goods with a decided figure, such as stripes 
and plaids, so that the figure of goods in cape may conform to that of the overcoal 
front and back, is illustrated in this diagram. 

TIr- overcoat is drafted as heretofore explained for Diagrams xm and xiv. 

To draft the cape, first lay the hack and forepart of overcoat together as cut and 
draw straight line on foundation line A to I\ which forms the center of hack of cape. 
and in cutting i> laid even with the crease edge of goods. 

From A to B is the length desired, plus ' _• inch. 

C is ' _• inch beyond I. 

Sweep by i inch forward of C. from H to D, ami form side seam from C, pa 
to sweep line B, D, as illustrated. 

To draft the front, lay hack and forepart together as before. 

Make a mark from the front shoulder point towards K 

Kxtend line of front scye from ( ) towards F. 

Go forward from P i% inches, and mark from () to Iv 

From to F is i inch more than from () to F. 

Get the length of hack from C to 1). and apply the same from () to Iv and from 
F to If. add ' ■ inch for seams at E and F. 

Sweep by from H to K. 

Form gourge and front of cape as illustrated. 

Place the two side seams together at I) and II. and reduce bottom of cape from 
sweep to fair line, as illustrated. 

If it is desired that the cape button in front, the center of front line at 5 | Dia- 
gram xin) will be the button line for cape t" which add 1 inch for button stand 

If additional drapery is desired increase the width of the forepart from K to II 
at II. terminating at nothing- at F. 



M-» 




Diagram XXIV. 



GORDON'S ui IRK ON CI II [NO. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXIV. 

Hool). 

This diagram represents the upper part (from scat line-) of a single-breasted fly- 
front ulster, in broken lines, with the hood in solid lines. 

It is drafted as follows : 

Place forepart and hack of the overcoat together, as represented in the diagram, 
the shoulder seams touching each other at ( >, II. 

Draw foundation line (perpendicular from A). 

From A to B is the hack scve depth. 

From B to 1) is three-fourths of bach scve depth. 

From C to D is one-half of back scve depth. 

Square across at A, B and C. 

From A to E is ' ; of the breast (overcoat) on the division of square. 

Square up at E- 

Measure neck gourge (without any allowances) A, O, M, and apply the same 
from A past O until the figures on tape denoting size of neck gourge touch line extend- 
ing upwards from K. as at F. 

Mark line A, O, F, and from F through scve at breast line, until it intersects at 
line extending from C, as at G ^observe that the line F, G is slightly curved). Draw 
straight line D to G. 

Add one inch in cutting (as per broken line F to G) for a hem, through which 
is to be inserted a drawing tape or ribbon. 

Lay the pattern with line D, G, on the crease edge of goods to avoid seam. 

Sew on a X i» cn band to neck of hood, by which the hood is fastened to the coat 
with holes and buttons, the line A, ( >. F, of hood resting on the collar seam of coat. 
Finish with a silk knot or bow at G. 

If hoad is to be worn with coat buttoned to neck, continue the line, G, F, as per 
broken line, to M, and change the line, A, O, F, to conform with the neck gourge. A, 
O, M. 



GORDON'S work ON CI I riNG 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXV. 
The Priest's Cassock. 

This diagram represents what is known as the four-seam cassock, now most in 
use by the clergy. Those of the High Church party require their choirs to be clad 
likewise. 

An examination of the diagram will show that it is produced with slight varia- 
tions, but upon the same principle as taught in this work, and as fully explained for 
Diagrams VI and xni, being a sort of combination of the two. The measure is taken 
as for a' clerical frock coat, the length extending to heel, and it is made to button to 
neck with standing collar, close fitting at the back waist, and with large, full center 
back and side blind plaits, as illustrated. 

To anyone familiar with the system herein taught, the diagram will furnish all 
of the information necessary to produce the garment, with a few additional suggestions, 
viz.: 

Go in at natural waist from foundation line i ' _• inches. 

From K to H is ' ; breast on the division, and 2 inches. 

Draw line 10 to H. 

From 10 to 14 is always 43 inches less the back scye depth. 

Square across from 14 to 16 

From 1 1 to 18 is always 9 inches, and on to 16 is 14 inches. 

Make the l / 2 back width at C, ,; ; of waist without allowance for seams 

Form center back seam. A, B, C. I >. through 16 to F, and add 5 inches for plait 
to back skirt. 

Form the side seams of back and forepart as shown, and add 4 inches to each 
for plait. 

From 3 (seat line) to J is 24 inches, and from J to K is 5 inches. 

The buttons are 2 inches apart, and holes to every other button below the waist. 
Small standing collar. 

There are usually no pockets in a cassock, but two openings are left in the side 
seams, and through these the hand may get to the side pockets. Some are made with 
a combination of opening and side pockets in the plaits, and others with an opening 
ibr pockets straight down on the forepart, as illustrated. 

The cassock is usually lined to about 1 inch below the waist, the skirts being 
left free 

For a three-seam cassock omit the fish under arms, take off ' _• inch from fore- 
part at blade and carry the side seam of forepart to X at the natural waist. 



69 




Diagram XXVI. 



Gi >kl>< >N'S \V( »kk i IN (ill i\(, 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXVI. 

Vests arc drafted upon the same principle as coats. In this diagram the vest 
is laid upon the outlines of a sack coat. ( For draft, separate from the coat pattern. 
Sir page -2. ) 

The coat pattern being drafted, the work of drafting the vest may be shortened 
by laying forepart and back together (and side-body of a body-coat) as in the diagram, 
first having drawn a straight line across the paper as line B, upon which place the coat 
draft 

Make a mark at C, and mark around the edge oi coal from A to C, A to < ). ( ) to 
i _'. [i i, P and (). 

Make a cross-mark at () (front shoulder point I. 

Turn tip the paper and mark underneath along the button line (if a single- 
breasted coat of the type of Diagram i or iv) as from 5 to 9. 

For all other styles of coat 1 to obtain the front line of a single-breasted vest) go 
forward 2 ' 4 inches from s to 9 and from \ to §, except /<>/ corpulent forms, when the size 
at breast line will be increased from 4 to 5, as shown by the button line of Diagram xn. 
which strikes the sweep line (extending up from 5) just below M. 

Remove the coat, mark down from 5 to 9 the same distance as from B to C, and 
mark across from C to 9 

Go up from to J, the same us A to of hack. 

Place end of tape at J, and by pivot O sweep to K (for height of opening, phis 2 
inches 1. to V 1 hip length, plus 1 inch 1. and to T 1 front length, plus 1 inch ). 

Go hack from 9 to 1 1 one-fourth of the waist, plus 1 inch. 

From B to I) is ' + of the breast, plus 1 inch. 

Outline side seam of forepart from D to 11 and V. 

I haw line from V to T, and finish at bottom in front, as in diagram. 

From ( ) to l6 is 1 inch, except for vests with stand and leaf collars. 

Outline from J past 1 6 to 5. 

Draw an upward curved line from () to P. 

From of hack to E is '+ of the breast. 

From () of front to F is ' + inch less than from () to Iv 

Mark arm hole from F, going forward of arm scye of coat % inch, and ' .. 
inch below, up to E- 

From C to 6 is % of the waist, plus 1 ' .. inches. 

From D past 6 to W is the same as from D past 11 to V, plus ' + inch. 

Outline side seam of back from D to 6 and \Y. 

Round out the center hack seam J 4 inch at B, mark pockets, and space for 
buttons. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTINO. 



The collar is flat, i. c , without stand. It is cut the same shape as the vest 

on the sew-on edge. Being without stand and crease, the front shoulder is advanced 

i inch from O to 16. For collar with stand, crease and leaf, the front shoulder 

point will remain at O. 

To draft the rest independent of tlic coat pattern, mark foundation line A, N. 

Apply back seye depth A to B, and length to natural waist A to C. 

Square across at A and C. 

Go in at C y 2 inch, and mark the center back seam as per broken line in 
diagram, from which all width measures must be applied. 

From A to 1 is * 6 of the breast of the division of square. 

From 1 (line A) to O is fs inch. 

From B to 1 is T 3 of the breast on the division of square, and 1^ inches. 

From B to D is % of the breast, and 1 inch. 

From B to 2 is the blade measure, plus ]/ 2 inch. 

From 2 to 3 is 1 6 of the breast on the division of square, plus )4 inch. 

From B to 4 is \i of the breast. 

From 4 to 5 is 2% inches* 

Square up from line B at 1, 2 and 3, and down at 2. 

From 1 011 line B to 12 is % of the breast on the division of square, and 
i^4 inches. 

Draw line from O to 12. 

From O to E is % of the breast on the division of square. 

From 2 to front of scye is \]4 inches. 

From D to bottom of scye is 1 inch. 

Apply the front scye depth from 2 to H. 

Sweep from H to J, using 2 as a center. 

From 7 (line C) to X is l /4 . of the waist, and % inch. 

From X to S is y 2 of the waist. 

From 8 to 9 is 2% inches. 

From 9 to 11 is % the waist, plus 1 inch. 

From C to 6 is % of the waist, plus 1 ]/ 2 inches. 

Apply the width of back (A to O) from the sweep line, H, J, to get point 
O on line extending up from breast line at 3, and draw a straight line from O to 
$j4 inches below A. 

Apply width of back shoulder O to E, along this last line, and mark the 
front shoulder O to F, dropping at F 1 inch. 

* For corpulent forms, the space from 4 to 5 will be increased somewhat. After having located the 
size of waist in front at 9, extend front line up until it intersects with the sweep line extending up from 5, 
just below M. 

72 



GORDON'S WORK ON CI I TIM.. 

( )utline arm hole F to K. 

Place end of tape at J, and using ' I as a center, sweep to K for the height of 
opening, adding 2 inches; to T for front length, adding 1 inch, and to V,adding 1 inch. 

Outline side seam of forepart from I) to 1 1, and sweep line V, as in diagram, and 
the side seam of back from 1) to 6 and W. 

From I) to W is *{ inch more than from 1) to V. 

From B to 13 is 1 ' 4 inches less than from D to W. 

Round out center back seam from A to C '4 inch at B, and spring out ' 4 
inch from C to 13. 

Go out from () 1 inch to [6, and outline front and remainder of vest, as in 
diagram. 

Cut out the pattern, leaving that portion from () to J for the present at- 
tached to the forepart. 

For a flat collar, place the forepart on a separate piece of paper and mark along 
the edge from J to 16 and 5, then remove the forepart, shape the free edge of collar as 
in diagram, or to style, and cut off the projection on forepart above O, 16. 

The collar is represented as a flat collar, i. e , without stand. For this reason 
the front shoulder is advanced from () to 16, 1 inch. 

For a vest with a crease collar (stand and leaf) the front shoulder point 
will remain at O. 

For no-collar vests leave the projection O, 16 to J, attached to forepart, and 
mark for front line from 16 to 5, as per broken line in diagram. 




Diagram XXVII. 




Diagram XXVIII. 



GORDi IN'S WORK ON CI I TING 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXVII. 

This diagram illustrates the manner of cutting vests for corpulent forms. It is 
drafted in same mannner as Diagram xxvi. A V is taken out at bottom of lower pocket 
welt, and the same amount and two seams are added below V, as in diagram. 

It also represents a rolling collar with stand and leaf. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXVIII. 

The Cassock Vest. 

This diagram illustrates one of several styles worn by the clergy. It is cl 
at the front and opens at right side and shoulder. It is drafted same as Diagram XXVII, 
except that to locate point M apply the measures as taken on client (over vest i for 
length of collar and slope of neck gourge. When cutting under conditions where these 
two measures are not obtainable, refer to Diagram i, and apply the sweep line from 5, 
line B ; to J, and the line L to M. dropping the front of gourge about 1 inch below the 
intersection of the two lines. 

Cut out the forepart in the usual manner, place it on separate piece of paper and 
mark along the edge of pattern from O to 13, O to F, to bottom of scye, along side seam 
to V, along bottom to 12. Remove the forepart and mark from 12 to 13, as in diagram. 
This piece is cut from the same material as the vest, for the right side only, and is 
attached to the hack of the vest, and upon which the buttons are placed. The opening 
at right shoulder seam will extend across the collar, hut that part of the collar which 
is attached to the forepart should be made about '_• inch longer than that which is at- 
tached to the back., the one to overlap the other at shoulder seam Small stand collar, 
opening at shoulder seam only. The right forepart is cut .AY from A to I;. It would 
add somewhat to convenience in buttoning at shoulder to cut off 1 inch from top of 
shoulder on the button side of forepart, and placing the buttons the same amount 
down. 




Diagram XXIX. 



GORDON'S WORK on < I [TING 



KXI'LANATION OF DIAGRAM XXIX. 
The Double-Breasted Vest. 

Proceed in the same manner as in explanation of Diagram xxvil, except that 

the line from 5 to 9 is 1 }\ inches forward of the }/ 2 breast and waist 4 and 8, and is at 
the center of front. 

From 9 to 1 1 is ) A of the waist, and )l inch. 

To get front line, 10, 14, 16, first determine how far apart laterally the buttons 
are to be placed. In the diagram the}- are 2 l / 2 inches at the lower button, and 3 at the 
top. Therefore go back l 4 of each for button line, and forward the same amount, plus 
-^ 4 inch. 

Shape lapel as in diagram, or the prevailing style 

The collar, in this instance, is with stand and leaf, therefore the front shoulder 
point is at O. 

It may be a flat collar, if desired, in which case advance shoulder point 1 inch 
forward of O, as in diagram XXVH. For stitched edges and pointing lapels, the style 
as illustrated is preferable, as it admits of a closer finish at the joining of collar and 
lapel. 




Diagram XXX. 




Diagram XXXI. 



CORDON'S WORK ON Ct I I INC. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAMS XXX AND XXXI. 

These represent two styles of clerical vests with standing collars, the first but- 
toning to neck, and the other at any desired height of opening. They are drafted as 
already explained for Diagram XXVII. 

For vests of this class apply the neck and slope of neck gourge measures. (See 
explanation of Diagram XXVIII.) 



BOUND EDGES. 

All of the allowances in this work for button stands (as from 5 to 6, lines 
R and C, Diagrams I, IV, etc., throughout), are for stitched edges. When bound, 
reduce the same ' 4 inch. The same also applies to vests. 




Diagram XXXII. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CI I [TNG. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXXII. 
A Vesi System i'n Divisions \\n rm Appln vtion oi i hi Front vnd Bm k Si v\ Depths. 

This is a simple method for drafting any style of vest, and lias been used by the author < 
work with very satisfa< tory results when producing proportionate blo< ks, and for custom work as well. I 
would as so<m use the one as the other, except that in this you will have the a; 

which must at times be i hanged to a more sloping shoulder in custom cutting. It" cutting a< oat and vest. I 
would draft the vest from the coat pattern. Foi a vesl only, this system is pei simple and re- 

quires less time to produi e than by the former. 

rO DR Ml THE FRON I . 

Draw perpendicular line A to F I iu, as the bat k is drafted separately. 

I he) ire placed together in the diagram to show their relationship). 

From A to 1! is 1-24 nf breast on division of square. 

From A to C is \ breast on division. 

From A to D is the fronl si ye depth less I in< h. 

From B to <■'• is j breast on division. 

Square out at B, ( 1 and 1 1. 

From D to E is 2 inches. 

From D to II is 2 inches. From II to I is J of breast on division, and from I to I is 3 inches. 

From I) to K is .' breast on division and 1 inch. 

Square up at I and down at J. 

From L to M is 1 breast on division less '. inch. 

\ is 1 inch forward of M for no-collar vest, and for vests with flat collars without stand. When 
cutting for collar with stand and li if the front line will run from from M to P, instead of, as in Diagram, 
from N to P. 

Draw upward curved line from M to C. 

From M to l" is } breast on division. 

Place end of tape at < >, and using M as a center, sweep to height of opening, adding 2 inches, then 
to side length S, adding 1 inch, and to T, adding t inch. 

For proportionate forms (having a difference of 4 inches between breast and waist), draw a slightly 
outward curved line from J. touching the line falling from J at V. For each 1 inch of difference between 
breast and waist less than 4 inches, increase the width of forepart opposite \V ] of an inch. 

From \Y to R is | waist and 1 inch. 

Outline front, bottom and side, and armhole U to E. (Observe that the side seam falls from I), 
not from E.) 

Cut paper from D to K. S. T and from l" to K. and E, and proceed 

TO DRAFT THE BACK. 

Square lines l, 12 and 1 1 . 

Apply length of side seam ol forepart from 12 to 13. 

I mm 13 to 7 is 2 inches. From 7 to 1 is the bai k scye depth less j inch. From 1 to 4 is | 
on division. 

Square out at 1, 4 and 7. 

From 1 to 2 is I breast on division. 

From 4 to 5 is ^ breast on division and 1 inch. 

From 7 to D is ^ breast and 1 inch. 

From 2 to 3 is § inch. Draw line 3 to 5. 

From center back line 1 to 10 going out £ inch at 7 and in I inch at 8. From 8 to 9 is J waist 
plus 1 \ inches. 

From 12 to 10 is 1 \ inches. 

From 3 to 6 is ] breast on division and J inch. 

Outline as per diagram, and cut out back. 

For double-breasted vest establish a (enter of front line which will be \ inch inside of J, P, VV, V, 
from which go back half the space you desire the buttons to be pla< ed apart, and forward the same amount 
plus f inch. 

81 




Diagram XXXIII. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CU n [NG 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXXIII. 
Tlie following measures are used in this diagram : 

Outside Seam, 42. Waist. 31. Knee, 19. 

Inside Seam, 32. Seat, 37. Bottom, 18. 

T< 1 Draft the Forepart " A." 

Draw straight line as from A to D. 

From A to D is the outside seam. 

From I) to I! is the inseam. 

C is 2% inches less than half the distance from B to D. 

Square out at A, B, C and D. 

From B to 7 is % of the seat on the division of square, less % inch. 

From B to 4 is % the seat on the division of square. 

From 4 to 5 is .'. of the seat on the division of square. 

From 4 to 6 is ', of the seat on the division of square, less % inch. 

E is ]/2 the distance from P> to 6. 

From I) to F is the same as B to K. 

Draw center line F, E, to 2. 

Square up from 4 to 3, and draw line 3 to 5. 

X is ', of the seat on the division of square above 5. 

From 3 to 1 is % of the waist. 

Draw line 1 to 3, and for forms of this proportion drop l / 2 inch at 3, below 
square line. 

Form curved lines 3 to 7. and 3 to 6. 

From 8 to 10 is % of the knee measure, divided equally on each side from 9. 

From 11 to 1 2 is '_• of the size of bottom, less 3 inches, divided equally on each 
side from F. 

Outline outside seam 1, B, 8 to 11, and inseam from 6 and 7 to i<> and 12. 

Hollow up at F '. inch, mark for pockets, and cut out the forepart, making 
nicks at B, 8 and 10. 

To Draft the Back " BA 

Place the forepart on paper or goods and extend the lines out at bottom and 
knee, and the center line down at F and up towards J. 

Sweep by P> from '_■ inch below 1 towards G. 

Sweep from 4 past 7 towards L. finding a pivot near inseam at line of knee. 

From 4 to L is % of the seat on the division of sqaure. I. is also % inch be- 
low sweep line out from 4. 

From E to J is % the seat on division of square. 

From J to K is ,',. the seat on division of square. 

Draw straight line K to X. and form back seam by hollowing slightly from K 
to 13, rounding out to L. as in diagram. 

Apply the measure for bottom, r 1 to 1 2, and 16 to 17. adding 1 inch for 4 seams. 

Apply the knee measure, S to 10, and 14 to 15, adding 1 inch for seams. 

Apply '_• tin- scat measure across forepart from X.and 13 to H, adding 2 inches 

(y 2 of 37 ='is>_; + 2 = 2o'o 

Apply y 2 waist measure 3 to i, and K to G, adding 2 inches for seams, and a 
% inch Y out of the back. (^ of 31 = 15^ + 2 = 17'... 1 

Outline back as per diagram, cut out the pattern, making notches at 14. 15, and 
yi inch below P. 

8.3 





Diagram] XXXIV. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXXIV. 

In this diagram three features are introduced which arc not apparent in the pre- 
ceding diagram, viz.: 

A. Location of center of waist in front for corpulent forms. 

B. Spring bottoms. 

C. Crooked backs. 

Corpulent Forms. 

A. The center of waist in front must never be located back of the line extend- 
ing from 4 to 3, but for corpulent forms it must be advanced according to the degree of 
corpulency. 

To locate this point go forward from 2, % of the waist on the division of square, 
less y s inch in all cases, except when on small waists, this division would bring the 
point back of 3, when it will be at 3. Having located this point in this manner, go 
back % of the waist to 1. 

Spring Bottoms. 

B. Spring bottoms are usually applied to trousers which are cut small through 
the thigh and leg, as in the diagram, which is drafted from the following measures : 



Waist seam to thigh. 13. 


Waist, 


33. 


Knee, 


1 7. 


Outside seam, - 42. 


Seat, 


40. 


Bottom, 


20. 


Inside seam, - 32. 


Thigh, 


23- 







The width of bottom of forepart is lessened, and that of the back is increased, 
as is hereafter shown. 

Crooked Backs. 

C- In Diagram xxxm the center of the back at waist is carried back from J to 
K, while in this diagram it is kept at J. The former represents what we will term 
straight hacks, and the center of back seam must thus be located for forms having a 
flat seat. The latter represents the crooked back, and is applicable to such forms as 
have a full or prominent seat, also for riding breeches 

The fronts are in broken lines and the backs in solid lines, 

85 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



To Draft the Fronts. 

Draw a straight line as from A to E- 

From A to C is the depth for thigh measure, and on to E is the outside seam. 

From E to B is the inside seam. 

D is 2 T/ 2 inches less than l / 2 the distance from B to E. 

Square out at A, B, C, D and E. 

From B to 4 is 3^ the seat measure on the division, and to 7 is 73 of the seat on 
the division, less % inch. 

From 4 to 5 is L of the seat on the division, and from 4 to 6 is l /s of seat on the 
division, less T + inch. 

G is }4 the distance from B to 6. 

From E to F is the same as from B to G. 

Draw center line from F, through G to 2. 

Square up from 4 to 3, and draw line 3 to 5. 

X is ', s of the seat on the division above 5. 

Go forward from 2 to center of front, which is 14, of the waist on the division, 
less Y % inch. (Except when on small waists, this division would bring the center of 
front back of 3, when it must remain at 3.) 

Having thus located this point, go back % of the waist to 1. 

Draw line from 1 to front, raising as much above 3 as the center front is thrown 
forward of 3. (See page n for corpulent forms.) 

Form the curved lines from center front to X and 7, and center front to 6. 

From 8 to 10 is }i the size at knee, divided equally on each side from 9. 

Deduct about 5 inches from the size of bottoms, and divide Y / 2 of the remainder 
equally on each side from F. 

Outline outside seam 1, B, 8, 1 1, and inseam 6 and 7 to 10 and 12. 

Round out at bottom 1 inch below F, mark for pockets, and cut out the forepart, 
making notches at B, 8 and 10. 

To Draft the Backs. 

Place the fronts on paper or goods and extend lines out at thigh, knee and bot- 
tom, and the center line down at F and up towards J. 
Sweep by B from ]/ 2 inch below 1 towards H. 
Sweep from 4 past 7 towards L, finding a center near inseam at line of knee. 



CORDON'S WORK ON CUT! [NG. 



From 4 to L is l /% of the seat on the division. L is also %, inch below sweep 
line out from 4. 

From G to J is - ; of the seat on the division. 

Draw straight line from J to X, and form the hack seam by hollowing slightly 
from J to 13, rounding out to L, as in diagram. 

Apply the measure for bottom, 1 r to 1 2 and 16 to 17. adding 1 inch for scams. 

Apply the knee measure, 8 to 10 and 14 to [5, adding 1 inch. 

Apply thigh measure, iS to 19 and 20 to 21, adding 1 inch. (.Sec page 11, close- 
fitting legs.) 

Apply l / 2 of scat measure across the front from X, and from 13 to K adding 2 
inches. (y 2 of 40 = 20 + 2 = 22.) 

Apply '.' the waist measure from center front to 1, and J to H, adding 1 inch 
for seams. 

(If a V is required at waist, add for the amount taken out by the V, and for two 
additional seams ) 

Outline as per diagram, cut out the backs, making notches at 14 and 15, and ' _• 
inch below B. 




Diagram XXXV. 



GORDON'S \\( iKK ON CI [TING. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXXV. 

This diagram illustrates the broad falls, and is drafted in the same manner as 
heretofore described, except that the width of the waistband is added to the backs, as in 
Figure B, and an extra piece is required for the fronts, which constitutes the bearers. 
and includes the remaining part of the waistband, as in Figure A. To produce the bear- 
ers, lay the pattern of the forepart on the paper or goods, and marking .around as rep- 
resented by the solid lines, add enough to make up for waistband and for buttoning 
at the front (yi inch). 

The opening at sides is usually from 7 to 8 inches, and in front 4 to 5 inches. 

Pockets are usually inserted in the fall hearer, as shown in the diagram, but 
may be placed at the side seams, if so desired. 



Trousers for Bow Legs. 

Draw center line from K I Diagram xxxin) to a point 1 ' _> to 2 inches forward of 
F towards 12. In all cases square across from the center line 2, K, 9, F, but divide the 
width of foreparts and backs, using the second center line as the base. 



General Remarks ox Trousers. 

From B to 14 of backs (Diagrams xxxin and XXXIV) is % inch less than from 
B to 8 of fronts. So also is from 15 to L H inch less than from 10 to 7. B and L of 
backs must be stretched up before seaming to equal B to 8, & 10 to 7 of fronts. This 
stretching of the back seams, and a good shrinking at back of thigh, will tend to obvi- 
ate superfluous goods at that point. 

For trousers with fly fronts, the fly should be cut as shown in Figure C, Dia- 
gram xxxv, hollowed about ; , inch from 1 to 4 more than the fronts. From 7 to 1 is 
1 inch. It should be cut about 2 inches in width opposite 4, and about 3^ inches 3 to 
5. On left side the inside strap is cut off, as per broken line at 6. 

The waistband should be cut 2 inches wide at front, and I'.i inches at back. 
Slightly convex on the sew-on edge towards front, and concave towards the back. (See 
Diagram xxxm.) From 2 to 5 is half the size of waist. Add 1 inch 5 to 6, and 2 
inches 2 to 1. 

Cut pocket facings and bearers at least 1 ' _. inches longer than the opening 
desired. 

The back straps are cut to make up about 5 ' _> inches in length. .> + inch wide at 
buckle end, and 1 ; + inches at the other, as in Figure B, Diagram xxxv. If trousers 
are to be made larger at seat to suit customer, do not change manner of taking meas- 
ure, but make memorandum "cut 1 inch large." more or less, as required. 



89 




Diagram XXXVI. 



C,( IRDON'S \V( >RK i IN CI I ITNG 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXXVI. 

Knee Pants. 

In this diagram we have a combination of "knee" and "riding" pants. The '-knee" pants 
extend from \ to I . md ire drafted from th viz.: waist to thigh i; '. inches, to kn 

outside seam -?<>>,. full length as for trousers 42. fnseam as for trousers 32, waisl 31, seat 37, thigh 22, knee 
1 5, bottom 14. 

To draft the fronts (Figure A), proceed as in i' m xxxm, excepl than the 

bottom is rounded about '. inch and ■ full i di' ided equally on each side from F. 

are usually three holes and buttons at the knee, the idi ieam being left open ind .1 facing cut on fi 

bottom to 1 iflch above the third button. 

The backs are drafted as alreadj explained foi Diagram xxxm, excepl thai they are crooked, i. e., 
the center of back waist is al J as in Figure B. Tin ollowed ' inch, and a facing cut on 

side seam same as to fronts. 

Waistbands are usually cut on, but may be cut separate if so desired. Cut turn up at the 
bottoms. 

Riding Breeches. 

These are but a continuation of the knee pants made to trai e the shape of the leg and to button 
close at ankle. They are drafted from the folio n waistband to thigh 1 

knee 24, to calf 30, to ankle 38^, full measure as foi trousei t2, inseam as for trousers 32, waist 31, seat 
J7, thigh 22, knee 15. calf 1 ;, bottom c). The full length of outside and inside leg seams are taken as 

as the best manner of getting the rise from A to B. Wlun this is dete ned the) have no further 

application. 

For Riding Bree< hes the side seam is usually left open from calf line down, and a t 
front and back side seam the length of the opening. The opening is closed with holes and buttons, the 

buttons being I ontinucd up above the knee as illustrated. 

A band t • > finish, about an inch in width, is sewed across the bottom, finished with hole and 
button at side seam. This button should be the first of the series of buttons above, all being placed at 
equal distances apart. 

The Leggings 

As shown in Figure C are sometimes worn with Riding Breeches They have but one seam at 
the back, opening at the outside and closing with holes and buttons. 

To draft, proi eed a- follows: 

Fold paper, the crease edge of which will correspond with the line from 1 to 4. 

From 1 to 4 is the length. 

Square across from 1 and 4. 

The width of the bred hes being 15 at the knee, the leggings should be \ inch larger at that point, 
therefore from 1 to 2 is 15.I inches, or whatever size nm I per measure taken; in this in 

it is ^ of 15.I inches and allowance for two seams. 

From 4 to 3 is same as from 1 to 2. 

Form back seam 2 to ;, sh tping in below calf as in diagram 

From 1 to A is the same as the size of I im 9 to S. From 4 to I? is same 

as 1 t<> A. 

I [1 ilh iw fi irepart ' inch abo\ e |. 

Cut out pattern on the double; open out and cut singly on line A, B; add i\ inches to the back 
for button stand, and ru md th : b ittom 1 orners al sub- opening as illustrated. 

For attaching the 1' m at and a button on back of breeches 

opposite, or a small leathei : u hed insid • tin- legging al *, with a button hole at the end. so 

placed that the hole will be opposite one of the butl 

A heel strap is attached to the legging at B, joining on the outside with a buckle. 




Diagram XXXVII. 



GORDl IN'S Wi iKK oN CI I riNG. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM XXXYII 
Knee Breeches. 

These are drafted from the following measures, viz.: 

From A to C 23 ' , inches, to D 27^. outside length as for trousers .|i'_-, 
inside length as for trousers 32, waist 31, seal 37, knee 22, bottom :_''.... 

They are drafted in the same manner as explained for knee pants, except that 
the bottom of foreparts, from 2 to 4, is made half the size of bottom, plus 1 inch, to 
allow for a l / 2 inch V (and seams) to be taken out at the bottom, as illustrated. 

The bottoms are finished with a band, to make up about 1 inch in width, to close 
at the outside with hole and button. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



EXPLANATION OF TABLES. 

The following tables of lengths and widths, pp. 95, 97, 98, 99, will be found to be 
of great value to the student, and the more advanced cutter as well. 

They are the result of many years' study of the proportions of the human form, 
and of practical experience in their application. 

They may be relied upon as being such as, when correctly applied, will enable 
him to produce perfectly-proportioned garments for all ages and sizes. They are also 
the basis from which are established the changes required to be made for all forms 
other than proportionate. 

They may be used by those who are engaged in any branch of cutting, or in 
the production of clothing or patterns for children, youths or men. In this work, 
however, reference will only be made to their use by students and cutters in the earlier 
stage of their experience. A thorough comprehension of the principles involved will 
the better qualify the advanced cutter for the duties connected with pattern cutting for 
the wholesale trade. 

The student desires to know what are the proportionate measures for a sack 
coat, we will say, of 40 breast measure. 

He will refer first to the '' Tabic of Lengths" and follow along the top line of 
figures until he comes to the column headed 40. 

Directly under 40 is 6 feet, which denotes that a proportionate form of 40 breast 
should be 6 feet in height. In which case the next figure underneath will denote the 
back scye depth 9, the next to the natural waist iS, the next to the seat line 26. He 
will establish the length as much below the bottom of seat (which is given in the next 
row as 29) as the prevailing style may require, say to 30^2 inches. 

Following down the column he will find that the front scye depth is 13^, the 
center shoulder 18^, sleeve 33/4- 

Referring to the " Tabic of Widths]' to the column under 40 breast, he will find 
that the arm scye is 17^, the % back width 7^, blade 12, waist 37, back waist (or 
waist suppression) 9, seat 42, etc. 

In this manner the measures may be ascertained by which he can draft for a 
proportionate form any style or size of garment — coats, vest or trousers. 

The custom cutter is sometimes required to cut from a few simple measures sent 
to him from a distance, and generally the most important are omitted, or if given are 
wholly unreliable. Without a knowledge of proportions he would have to plead in- 
ability to meet such requirements. He must have the form to measure, otherwise he is 
helpless. 

94 



GORDON'S Work ON CI I I [NG. 





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CORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



Extensive businesses are being conducted which are exclusively confined to the 
making of custom clothing where the measures are sent in by the buyers or by selling 
agents of but very little and often of no experience in taking measures. Experi- 
ence has demonstrated that a business of this character can be carried on with a smaller 
percentage of misfits, and at less cost for alterations, than under the conditions which 
usually govern in custom cutting. 

The tables furnish the data by which the cutter can meet such requirements 
upon his ability, in a manner the most satisfactory to all the parties concerned, the 
height, breast, waist and seat measures being given, also sleeve length and inseain, 
and any noticeable peculiarities of the form pointed out. 

They will also furnish a basis from which he can grade proportionate sets of 
blocks to be used in custom cutting, which he will find to be of great service, and 
a daily necessity. 

It must be clearly understood that the lengths and widths, as laid down in 
the tables, are for proportionate forms, by which is meant that the form has de- 
veloped in height and width proportionately- 
Disproportionate forms are those where the development in height is greater 
or less than in width, as for example, 40 breast and 5 feet 7 inches in height. Such 
a one is 5 inches under the height for a proportionate 40 breast. A form of 35 breast 
and 6 feet in height illustrates the other extreme, being 5 inches over the height for a 
proportionate 35 breast. 

The measures given in the tables are for the sizes, lengths and widths made up, 
therefore allowance must be made in drafting for seams and ease, as heretofore 
instructed. 

To determine what changes shall be made to meet the requirements of dispro- 
portionate forms, see Contents, " Disproportionate Forms." 

A glance at the left hand marginal column will suggest other uses to which 
the tables are applicable, which is not necessary to further allude to now. 



GORDON'S WORK ON Cl'l MM, 





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GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



DISPROPORTIONATE FORMS. 

Under this head is classed all such as, first, where the height is greater or less 
than the standard of height for anv given breast, as given in the Table of Lengths, 
and second, where the widths at blade, waist or seat are greater or less than as given in 
the Table of Widths appropriate to any given breast. These may be called Longs, 
Stouts, Short-Stouts and Fats, Erect and Stooping. 

For example, a form of 40 breast and waist 5 feet 7 inches in height, being 5 
inches under the height for a proportionate form (see Table of Lengths), and 3 inches 
larger at the waist (see Table of Widths) would be classed as a Short-Stout. 

One 35 breast and 6 feet in height, would be classed as a Long, being 5 inches 
over the height appropriate for 335 breast of proportionate or regular form. 

To disproportionate forms is also added all those who differ materially in any 
respect, whether of posture (or carriage) or slope of shoulder, from the standard for 
proportionate forms. 

In custom cutting the measurement of the form will indicate what are the 
lengths and widths of the form, and of the parts thereof, to be fitted. This article is 
intended only to illustrate what is meant by a disproportionate form in contradistinction 
to a regular form as given in the tables 

The method of procedure, when the cutter is called upon to cut from a few 
simple measures which may be sent to him from a distance, will be pointed out under 
head of " Block Patterns, and Hoiv to Use Them?' 



GORDON'S WORK i )N CI fTING 



BLOCK PATTERNS. 

The use of block patterns was at first thought to be confined to such houses as 
dealt exclusively in the manufacture of ready-made garments. The advantages to be 
derived from an intelligent use of well-graded and proportioned block patterns to one 
who is engaged wholly in custom cutting, are fast becoming appreciated. In fact, such 

are the demands which are frequently made upon very many as regards the quantity 
of work which must be gotten through with, that they are almost an indispensable 
necessity. 

It has often been observed that the same garment will fit very many persons 
equally as well as the one for whom it was originally intended. This observation is 
greatly strengthened when one has had an experience in the use of good block patterns. 
By a good block is meant one which is graceful in its outlines, correct in its propor- 
tions, and which, in its lengths and widths, is adapted to the largesl average of forms 
and shapes of any given size Now, as a large proportion come within the range 
of what are termed proportionate shapes, it is only a waste of effort and time to 
draft a pattern for each one separatelv, as he presents himself to the cutter. 

The student has now acquired a knowledge of the proportions of a proportionate 
garment, and is experienced in measuring the forms to lie fitted. Hence a comparison 
of the measures taken with those established for the average or proportionate figure, 
will at once reveal wherein the two differ, and indicate what changes, if any. are neces- 
sary to be made. These changes are often but slight, and thus by the use of the block 
much time is saved, and mistakes, which often creep in when making a hurried draft, 
are avoided. In the few exceptional cases where the changes to be made are radical, 
I would advise a special draft. 

Sets of regulars will be sufficient to meet the requirements of a custom tailoring 
business. Grades should be made for the principal styles, such as Sacks. Cutaways, 
F rocks, Dress Coats, Fall and Winter Overcoats, etc. (one set of sleeves, backs and side- 
bodies being sufficient for the several styles of fronts). Also make grades for vests and 
for trousers. 




Diagram XXXVIII. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CI 1 flNG 



HOW TO PRODUCE BLOCK PATTERNS, 
a. For Custom Work. 

Select from the tables of Lengths and Widths the proportionate measures for 
a 36 breast sack coat. \ i/.: 

8#, 17. 24^, 29^, 7, 2o#, 31^, ii, i:\, 16",. 15^, 7^4, 36, 32, 37- 

Also for a I 1 1 breast, which arc as follows: 
9, is, 25H, 3'#> 7#, 22, r, 1 .., 12, 13^, iS' 4 . , 7 ' 4 . 9, 40, 37, 42. 

Draft a separate pattern for each coat as instructed in the preceding explanations 
for sack coats exercising care that they are accurately drafted, and that the outlines 
are in conformity with the prevailing styles. 

Take separate paper ot good quality and outline the two drafts upon it. breast 
line on breast line, and blade line on blade line, as shown in Diagram XXXVIII, also 
sleeves and collar. 

Make cross lines, as represented by the references "A," and space off as shown. 
first by making a light mark at each cross-line hall way between the outlines of each 
pattern, also the same distance inside of the 36 and outside the 40, then subdividing 
these spaces equally. These divisions will give you the outlines, location of pockets 
and buttons for each size from 3 ( to 42 breast. 

Mark the sizes at each crossdine as shown. 

Having thus completed the grade, take off the patterns by beginning with the 
largest size required. Lay grade on separate sheet and prick through at each cross- 
line marked 42. Remove the grade, and outline carefully from prick to prick for the 
42, and cut out the pattern. Then prick off the 41. using the 42 already cut as a guide 
for marking the outlines from prick mark to prick mark of the 41. and proceed in this 
manner until all the sizes required are taken off and the set is completed. 

The grade may be enlarged by drafting a 32 or a 4}. and adding to the grade, 
which, when spaced, will give sizes from 30 to 46. 

For any style of coat proceed in the same manner. 

There are other methods of grading, as from one pattern, but for present pur- 
poses this method will, we think, be the more readily comprehended by the student. 




4r1 




Diagram XXXIX. 



GORDON'S w< )RK ON CI ["TING. 



b. For Stock Work and for Country Orders. 

Proceed in the same manner as for custom work, except that the arm scy< 
to be deepened y 2 inch, for the reason that they must be of sufficient depth to be 
adapted not only to men of the proportionate depth of scye, but to the extra sloping 
shoulders as well. To increase the depth of scye and maintain the same characteristics 
of shape and slope as in the blocks for custom work, make these additions to the 
measures as giveu in the tables, viz., to front and back scye depths ' _• inch, to center 
shoulder % inch, and to arm scye i inch. Sec Diagram XL, Figure I. The follow- 
ing will illustrate the first being the measures tor a set of blocks for custom work, and 
the second those for stock work and country orders : 

9, 18, 25^, 31',. 7 S/ S , 22, 33^, 12, i5' 2) i8#, 17%, 9, 4o, 37, 42- 
9 l A, 18, 35#. -'-■■ 7 5 A 22 i 33#i '-• 14, >">'- |S, 4- 9. 40. 37- 42. 

In custom work you have customer to measure, for this reason the blocks are 
cut for proportionate depth of scye, which can be lessened or increased as each case may 
demand. 

One set of blocks can be made to answer for both custom work and stock (or 
country orders) by adding to the top of back, front shoulder and neck gourge, and tak- 
ing off at the bottom, each ' _• inch, as shown in Diagram XL, Figure 1. This will 
produce the same result. The top sleeve must, however, be increased 1 inch from R to 
I), and the top round raised ' ; inch. 




Diagram XL. 



G< iRDi IN'S W« >RK < IN ( U [TING. 



HOW TO USE BLOCK PATTERNS, 
a. For Custom Work. 

The value of block patterns is greatly diminished from the fact that too often 
persons wholly inexperienced in proportions, and in the method by which they arc pro- 
duced, are entrusted with their manipulation. If the patterns are good, and the form to 
be fitted comes within the range of a proportionate figure, they will experience but little 
difficulty. 

/>'///, in changing a proportionate pattern to the requirements of a disproportion- 
ate form, it is of the first importance that the cutter shall know what are the s< 
lengths and widths of the pattern he is using, how the pattern is produced, and also 
what are the lengths and widths of the parts of the form to be fittted. 

[f you have carefully followed the instructions in the order herein given, you 
have the means of determining the first important matter just alluded to, and of pro- 
ducing sets of proportionate blocks. The disproportions in the form of the person for 
whom you may be required to produce a pattern can only be definitelv ascertained 
by a system of measurements not at great divergency from that herein taught. 

For example, you are called upon to produce a frock coat, and the measures 
taken of customer are as follows : 

s ■ , , 1 6, 1 8 ' , . 36, 7, 3 1 %, 1 1 %, 1 2, i6#, 1 5}4, 8, 36, S3, 38. 

Knowing what the measurements are from which the 36 block is produced 1 and 
for convenience you have previously marked the same on each block at appropriate 
points;, a comparison of the two will show that the length of waist is to be % inch 
longer, the blade is to be increased ' 4 inch, the front scye depth shortened ' 4 inch, 
the back waist increased T 4 inch, and the full size of waist 1 inch. These change 
illustrated in Diagram XL, Figure 2, the dotted lines representing the block, and the 
solid lines the pattern as changed to meet the requirements of customer. By moving 
the scye forward ' 4 inch to get the increased measurement of blade, von have in- 
creased the waist suppression the same amount, and to the measure of customer at 
that point. To maintain the size at breast always mark first along front edge and 
sidr seam before making changes in blade, and in changing the position of scye al- 
ways move the pattern forward or back upon the breast line Remember that any 
change made in size of blade has increased or decreased the full size of arm scye 
and back waist suppression, and as in this case the scye of customer is to be same as 
block, ' 4 inch must be taken off at P. In moving the block up or down when 
making changes in the lengths, always move on the blade line H, 2, 3 (of Diagram 
1 ) or H, 2, 5 of Diagram IV. Having established the points for the changes to be 
made at shoulder, place the front and back shoulder points of the block at the new 
points thus obtained, and mark from O to P. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



The neck gourge is raised or lowered in the same degree that the front scye 
depth is increased or decreased. Whenever the length to natural waist is materially 
increased or decreased, apply the waist measure of customer at proper position on 
pattern. The amount of difference between waist and seat of block being the same 
as that of customer, viz., 5 inches, there will be no change in the spring line of 
skirt Add to the width of under sleeve at top of under arm seam the same as 
is added to blade, and decrease the upper sleeve head from R to D the same as you 
have changed the size of the top scye. The length of front skirt must be adjusted 
to the length of back skirt, and the waist seam of skirt to the size of forepart and 
side-body, as from W to V and V to T. 

Measure neck gourge A, O, M, and make seam edge of collar the same 
length, without allowances. 

All changes in waist suppression are to be made by adding to, or taking 
from, the space between 3 and 4 on upper waist line, as the measure taken for 
back waist will determine. 

The relation of the front shoulder point (O) with the blade (2) as regards 
its position forward from line 2, H, must not be changed from that of the block, 
except for those who carry the head quite forward, or the reverse, quite erect. For 
the former it may be advanced from % to }i inch, and for the latter it may be placed 
the same degree back, according to the degree of difference from the normal form. For 
the former the front scye depth measure will be shorter and the back scye depth longer 
than for the normal form, and for the latter the front depth measure will be longer 
and the back depth shorter. 

Always locate the position of the arm scye first as per measure taken, point O 
following in the same relation, before making the required changes at top shoulder, full 
size of scye at P and neck gourge. 

b. For Country Orders. 

When cutting from measures taken by inexperienced parties, it is requisite that 
you have correct height, breast, waist and seat measures, sleeve length, inseam and out- 
side seam for trousers 

Never be mislead by any short measures, or attempted description of form which 
may come from such a source, but adhei-e to the proportionate block, adjusting the 
lengths of waist and skirt, sleeve, size of waist, etc., to the measure sent. 

When, after suitable instructions, the measures and descriptions (particularly 
the descriptions) can be relied upon, such as head extra forward, blades extra full, back 
waist extra full, or the reverse, shoulders high, regular or extra sloping, you can then 
venture to make the necessary changes, but otherwise adhere to the general principle 



CORDON'S WORK <)N CI I flNG 



that a well-proportioned garment with sufficient scye depth for an extra sloping shoulder, 
is the one that is best adapted for work of this character. 

Pi )R Short-Stouts. 

In establishing the lengths for forms where the height is not in proportion to 
the breast measure (as for a figure 5 feet 7 inches and p breast), the lengths to the 
natural waist, seat line, sleeve, etc., will be shortened to the lengths given in the column 
for 67 inches in height. 

The lengths for back scye depth, front scye depth and center shoulder will re- 
main the same as in the column of 40 breast, provided that the pitch or slope of the 
top shoulder is to be the same as for a normal or proportionate figure As a general 
rule, however, when the figure is very much under the height proportionate to the 
breast measure, the shoulders will also be less sloping, and in such eases the back and 
front scye depths should be lessened from %. to l / 2 an inch, and the center shoulder half 
as much more. Do not make this change, however, unless satisfied that customer has 
high, square shoulders. 

All widths at the breast line will be the same as lor regulars. 

The widths at waist line will be increased according to the measure. 

The back waist measure will also be increased to the proportion given in table 
for the size of waist used. For example, a 40 breast and 39 waist will carry aback 
waist of 9 1 .., as against 9 for a 37 waist, and a 41 waist will carry a back waist of 
io / . (See Table of Widths. I 

Fur Longs. 

In establishing the lengths of '" Longs," where the height i^ greater than the 
proportion of height to breast measure (as for a figure 72 inches in height and 36 
breast), the lengths to the natural waist, seat line, etc, must be increased to the lengths 
given in the column for 72 inches in height. The lengths for back and front scye 
depths will remain the same as in the column for 36 breast, provided that the pitch or 
slope of the top shoulder is to he the same as for a normal or proportionate figure. It 
is quite common, however, in cases of this kind, that the slope of shoulder is greater 
than for a proportionate figure, when the lengths of back and front scye depths must 
hz increased from % to '.. an inch, and the center shoulder half as much more Do 
not make this change however, unless satisfied that customer has extra slo 
shoulders. 

All widths at the breast line will be the same as for regulars. 

The back waist suppression and size of waist will be made to conform to the 
measure of waist furnished. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



TRYING ON. 

Avoid it as much as possible. It belongs to the old, and has but little to do 
with the new. Any system which makes a try on a necessity is unworthy of your con- 
sideration. It does not follow that without a try on all changes are avoided. Neither are 
they avoided by trying on. 

Both cutter and customer can better judge of the effect and necessary changes 
from the finished garment than from a mere baste up. 

If you are a progressive cutter, and are careful in taking your measures, and in 
applying them to the draft, the changes will be few and of no material importance. If 
you cannot reach such a degree of proficiency after a reasonable amount of application 
of the principles herein taught, seek some other profession. 

Whenever, for sufficient reasons, a try on is desired, in addition to the usual out- 
lets, leave outlets also at front of forepart and full length of coat. Have the round of 
front worked back over the breast, and that of the skirt at plait edge straightened and 
worked forward over the hips. Baste in skirt pockets. Have all seams close-basted 
and pressed. Baste canvas and build the shoulders as may be required. Pad and baste 
under collar, and baste in both sleeves. 

First (before pinning the coat at front to hold it up to the form) adjust the bal- 
ance or lengths of front and back scye depths and the waist suppression so that the 
coat will conform to the form of customer and not sag off at the back waist. Then con- 
fine coat at front, make a mark in front where the edge of left forepart laps on to the 
right, adjust lengths of coat and of sleeves, spring of skirt, and any other changes 
which may be required. 

ALTERATIONS. 

It is not our purpose to enter fully upon the difficulties which have too long at- 
tended the career of very many, nor to point out the various remedies to be applied. 
Space will not permit, nor does the occasion justify. You should be so experienced 
and competent in your calling that but few will be required, and of that degree of pro- 
ficiency that when, for example, the scye seems tight, coat wrinkles at front of scye, 
draws over the shoulder and is full at round of side-body, instead of cutting out the scye, 
taking a slice off the outer shoulder point or round of side-body, you will know at once 
that the fault is not with the cutting, but it is a bad case of tight linings, crooked fac- 
ings, or shoulder canvas — or, more comprehensively, of bad workmanship. 

Many a well-cnt garment has been killed because, in attempting to remedy ap- 
parent faults, the alteration was made from the outside rather than from the inside. 

If the garment is to a marked degree different from what it should be at any point, 
it would be well to remeasure customer and examine your draft. If satisfied then that 
there has been no mistake on your part, look for tight linings, crooked facings, or other 
evidences of bad workmanship, and endeavor to know the cause of the difficulty. Never 
presume that the fault is in the cutting as a matter of course, and at once begin to cut 
out at one place, and off at another, until first satisfied that there is not some cause for 
the difficulty for which you are not directly responsible. First examine the inside and 
the workmanship generally, then you can better determine what the changes shall be. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CI [TING 



GENERAL NOTES AND CAUTIONS- 

(i.) All of the allowances for make up and button stands (as from 5 to 6, line 
B, Diagram iv, viz., i 1 .. inches) are for stitched or felled edges. For coats and vests 
which are to be bound, reduce front edge and leaf of collar ' + inch. 

(2.) The line L,, M in all the diagrams is merely a basis from which to establish 
the pitch of neck gourge, which, as a general rule, will be on this line. But for extreme 
short rolls raise the front of gourge sufficiently above the line at M so as to produce 
the desired effect to lapel and notch formed by the joining of collar. For long rolls 
drop the front of gourge about l /z inch below the line I,. M. This gives a longer col- 
lar, brings the notch in better position for a long-roll coat, and necessitates less con- 
vexity on the sew-on edge of collar than would otherwise be required. 

(3.) The point 12 in all diagrams may be raised to cutter's taste, according 
may desire a higher shoulder seam. What is added at 1 2 will be taken off at P. 

(4.) Experience only will give you a knowledge of the nature and peculiaritic> 
of the different materials you are called to manipulate. Some are soft and spongy, and 
work large. Others work up small, particularly the cheaper grades of worsteds, 
also silk mixtures. For the former class of goods, and for closely-woven goods, as 
are termed cloths, cut well inside of the chalk marks, and for the latter cut well outside. 

(5.) Always work with well-sharpened chalk. Be precise in all matters. Follow 
the maxim. " Make haste slowly." 

(6.) Begin this study at the beginning, not at middle or finish. 

(7.) Familiarize yourself, by careful and repeated readings, with the manner of 
taking the measures, and of their application to the draft. 

(8.) Should difficulties arise (as for example, coats run a little full in the blades 
or in the breast), do not err by reducing the allowance for make up and ease, or by tak- 
ing off % or '_. inch from your draft at the joining of back and side-body at breast line, 
but know that you are not taking the measures as instructed, i. c, close, snug measures. 
1 11 brief, do not depart from the system you are endeavoring to utilize, nor hastily con- 
clude that you can better teach your instructor. 

(9.) Place yourself under the instruction of a practical tailor and learn how to 
make a garment. See to it that your bushelman has the qualifications of a first-class 
workman. 

You may lack experience at the commencement of your career, but do not have 
about you an inexperienced bushelman. With thoughtfulness, care and patience you 
can soon acquire a knowledge of, and fill your appropriate place in, an honorable and 
useful profession. 



GORDON'S WORK ON CI I UN'' 



CONTENTS. 



• 



9 

Arm Scye no 

Alterations ... g 

Blade 9 

Back Waist Suppression.. _ , 3 

Back Scye Depth ... 49 

Box < >vercoat. 55 

Bound Edges 79 

Bound Edges I(1I 

Block Patterns io ^ 

Block Patterns (How to Produce) io5 

Block Patterns (How to Produce io7 

Block Patterns (How to Use) m 

Bushelmau (General Notes and Cautions) ^ 

Center of Front , - 

Center of Front 3 , 

Center of Front 49 

Center of Front 9 

Center Shoulder IO 

Clerical Coats, etc 2g 

Clerical Coats, etc _ 5 

Collars 61 

Capes 63 

Capes 65 

Capes 7 

Double-Breasted Sack Coat }| 

Double-Breasted Frock Coat ^ 

Double-Breasted ( )ver Sack 

Dress Coat ; - 

Dress Coat ( Shawl Collar | ....96 

Disproportionate Forms 1QO 

Disproportionate Forms 

Explanation of Tables 

Explanation of Tables , , 

From Scye Depth.... p 

Fat Man's Sack Coat ^ 

Fat Man's Walking Coat 1 M 

General Notes and Cautions ... 



GORDON'S WORK ON CUTTING. 



PAGE. 

How to Measure 9 

Half Back Width 9 

Hood 67 

High Shoulder Seam ( General Notes) (3) 1 1 1 

Inverness 57 

Inverness (with Sleeves ) 59 

Knee Pants 9 1 

Knee Breeches 93 

Location and Size of Pockets 25 

Leggings 9 1 

Preface 5 

Pitch of Neck Gourge ( General Notes) (2) 1 1 1 

Paddock Overcoat 53 

Priest's Cassock 69 

Proportionate Forms 96 

Riding Breeches 91 

Shawl-Collar Sack Coat 19 

Shawl-Collar Over Sack 51 

Surtout Overcoat 5 r 

Single-Breasted Sack Coat 13 

Single- Breasted Frock Coat 27 

Sleeves 9 

Sleeves 37 

Single-Breasted Over Sack 45 

Single-Breasted Over Sack ( fromheavy goods) 47 

Three-Button Cutaway Frock 21 

Trousers, Regular, Straight Backs 83 

Trousers, Corpulent 85 

Trousers, Spring Bottoms, Crooked Backs 85 

Trousers, Broad Falls 89 

Trousers, Bow Legs 89 

Table of Lengths 95 

Table of Lengths 97 

Table of Widths 9§ 

Table of Widths ■ 99 

Trying On no 

Vest, Single-Breasted, Notch Collar 72 

Vest, from Coat Pattern 71 

Vest, Corpulent. Roll Collar 75 

Vest, Cassock 75 

Vest, Double-Breasted n 

Vest, Clerical, Standing Collar 79 

Vest, A Divisional System 81 



